🔧 Camry - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Camry, the rear suspension uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses struts (a strut is a shock that also supports the spring and affects alignment). I’ll cover both: rear shock replacement and front strut replacement, so you can do the end you’re working on.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.5-3 hours | Front: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Keep clear of orange high-voltage cables (hybrid system). Do not probe, unplug, or tug them.
• 🛑 Front struts require a coil spring compressor; a compressed spring can cause severe injury if released suddenly.
• 🛑 Work on level ground and use wheel chocks.
• 🛑 Let suspension parts cool before touching if you just drove.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Socket set 10mm–22mm (1/2")
• Wrench set 10mm–22mm
• 19mm socket
• 6mm hex key socket
• Pry bar (12–18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil spray
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 1
• Front sway bar end links - If worn/noisy - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Turn the car fully OFF (not READY). Keep the key fob at least 10+ feet away.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
• Loosen lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket before lifting.
• If doing front struts: plan on getting a front wheel alignment after the job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands and give it a firm shake test.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2 (Rear): Access the rear shock upper mount

• Open the trunk.
• Remove the trunk side trim/liner near the shock tower using a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.
• You should see the top of the rear shock mount and nuts.

Step 3 (Rear): Remove the rear shock

• Spray the lower shock bolt with penetrating oil spray.
• Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (hold the nut with a 17mm wrench if needed).
• In the trunk, remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Pull the shock out from the wheel well.

Step 4 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock in place.
• Start the upper nuts by hand in the trunk using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench:
• Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs) for rear shock upper nuts.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) for rear shock lower bolt.
• Reinstall trunk trim using the trim clip removal tool.

Step 5 (Front): Disconnect items attached to the strut

• Spray the strut-to-knuckle bolts with penetrating oil spray.
• Unbolt the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket (do not stretch the wires).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm socket; if the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket.
• Tip: Keep hardware grouped per side.

Step 6 (Front): Remove the strut from the steering knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position (helps you get close before alignment).
• Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar (hold the nut with a 22mm wrench).
• If it’s stuck, tap the bolts out with a rubber mallet and use a pry bar carefully.

Step 7 (Front): Remove the strut assembly from the car

• Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut as you remove the last nut, then lift the strut assembly out.

Step 8 (Front): If reusing the spring, swap parts (spring compressor required)

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. A spring compressor squeezes the spring shorter so it’s not pushing on the top mount.
• Tighten each side evenly using a hand wrench set until the spring is loose in the upper seat.
• Remove the strut top nut using the appropriate socket while holding the shaft with a hex key socket if required.
• Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut, then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
• Tip: If unsure, buy complete strut assemblies.

Step 9 (Front): Install the strut assembly

• Place the strut into the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the knuckle and install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 22mm socket.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 6mm hex key socket if needed.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Final tightening with a torque wrench:
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for front strut mount nuts.
• Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) for front strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for front sway bar end link nut.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify the steering is centered.
• Recheck for any loose brackets/lines near the struts.
• If you replaced front struts, schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• After 25–50 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, front and/or rear)

DIY Cost: $180-$800 (parts only, depending on front/rear and brand)

You Save: $520-$800+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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