🔧 Highlander - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Highlander. Struts support the vehicle’s weight, control bounce, and help keep the tires firmly on the road.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This procedure is for the front struts. The rear suspension on your Highlander uses separate shock absorbers, not front-style strut assemblies.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so the suspension stays even side-to-side.
• ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if possible. A loaded strut comes preassembled with the spring, strut, upper mount, and bearing.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the large center nut on the strut. The coil spring is under high pressure and can cause severe injury.
• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands. Never work on a vehicle held only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose, ABS wire, or CV axle.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs)
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• 6mm Allen key
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Small pry bar
• Bungee cord
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

Allen key: a hex-shaped tool for socket-head fasteners.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts - Qty: 4
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, sway bar link nuts, and brake hose bracket bolts.
• No infotainment menu steps, scan-tool commands, EPB service mode, ADAS calibration mode, or battery registration are required.
• Plan for a professional wheel alignment after the repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Highlander from the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the front lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to draw a line across the lower strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the large metal part that holds the wheel hub.
• This mark helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket if your ABS wire bracket uses a small bolt.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to gently release plastic wire clips from the strut.
• Move the brake hose and ABS wire aside without stretching them.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Use a 17mm socket or 17mm wrench to loosen the stabilizer bar link nut at the strut.
• If the stud spins, hold the center with a 6mm Allen key while turning the nut with a 17mm wrench.
• The stabilizer bar link connects the strut to the sway bar, which helps reduce body lean in turns.
• Push the link out of the strut bracket.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use a bungee cord to hold the steering knuckle upright.
• Attach the bungee cord to a solid suspension or body point.
• Do not allow the knuckle to pull outward on the CV axle.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the two lower strut nuts.
• Hold each bolt head with a 22mm wrench while removing the nuts.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out if they are tight.
• Keep one hand on the steering knuckle so it does not fall outward.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a trim clip removal tool only if a plastic cowl edge clip blocks access.
• Locate the three upper strut mounting nuts on top of the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove two nuts.
• Support the strut from below, then remove the final nut with the 14mm socket.
• Guide the strut assembly out through the wheel opening.

Step 10: Compare the Old and New Strut

• Place the old and new loaded strut assemblies side by side.
• Make sure the lower bracket, brake hose tab, sway bar link tab, and top studs face the same way.
• Use a paint marker to mark the new strut orientation if needed.
• Left and right struts are different.

Step 11: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new strut into the wheel well.
• Insert the upper studs through the strut tower holes.
• Start the three new upper mounting nuts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper mounting nuts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Line up the paint marks on the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• Use a small pry bar gently if the holes need help lining up.
• Install the lower strut bolts through the bracket and knuckle.
• Thread the new nuts on by hand.
• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle nuts to Torque to 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the strut bracket.
• Start the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm Allen key while tightening with a 17mm wrench.

Step 14: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

• Place the brake hose bracket back onto the strut.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• Use your fingers or a trim clip removal tool to secure the ABS wire clips.
• Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted or rubbing.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat the same steps on the other front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Always replace struts in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each front wheel back onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise your Highlander slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing or popping.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check for clunks, pulling, vibration, or warning lights.
• ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles with a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench.
• ✅ If an ABS, traction control, or stability control light comes on, inspect the front wheel speed sensor wires and have the system scanned.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $400-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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