🔧 Grand Cherokee - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Grand Cherokee. The front strut supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bounce, and helps keep the tire planted on the road.

Assumption: This procedure is for replacing both front complete/loaded strut assemblies, not rebuilding the spring and strut separately.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so the suspension stays balanced left-to-right.
• ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if possible. A loaded strut already includes the spring, mount, and strut together.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the old strut unless the coil spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor. The spring is under very high force.
• ⚠️ Always support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses, ABS wires, and wheel speed sensor wiring from stretching while the suspension hangs.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 22mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• 24mm wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete loaded strut assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front lower strut-to-clevis fasteners - Qty: 2 sets
• Front clevis-to-lower-control-arm fasteners - Qty: 2 sets
• Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Grand Cherokee on a flat, solid surface.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Open the hood so you can access the upper strut mounting nuts.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, clevis bolts, and sway bar link nuts.
• A clevis is the fork-shaped bracket that connects the lower part of the strut to the lower control arm.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Grand Cherokee at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front frame support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby to support the lower control arm later.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Mark the Strut and Clevis Position

• Use a paint marker to mark where the strut sits inside the lower clevis bracket.
• This helps place the new strut close to the original position before alignment.
• Marks help alignment, not replace it.

Step 5: Free the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any brake hose or ABS wire bracket bolts attached to the strut area.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to gently release plastic wire clips if needed.
• Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar Link from the Strut Area

• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut or suspension bracket area.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct internal drive while loosening the nut with the 18mm wrench.
• Move the sway bar link aside without bending it.

Step 7: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower control arm.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the arm. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This prevents the suspension from dropping suddenly when the strut is loosened.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Clevis-to-Control-Arm Bolt

• Use a 24mm socket, 24mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the clevis-to-lower-control-arm bolt and nut.
• Remove the nut and slide the bolt out.
• If the bolt is tight, use a rubber mallet to tap it out gently.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Clevis Bolt

• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the bolt that clamps the lower strut into the clevis bracket.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to spread the clevis slightly if the strut is stuck.
• Do not over-spread or damage the clevis bracket.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Under the hood, locate the three upper strut mount nuts on the side you are replacing.
• Use an 18mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper nuts.
• Hold the strut assembly with one hand while removing the last nut so it does not fall.
• Do not remove the large center nut on the strut.

Step 11: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum slightly under the lower control arm to create space.
• Guide the strut assembly downward and out through the wheel well.
• Use a rubber mallet only if the lower strut is stuck in the clevis.

Step 12: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Position the new loaded strut assembly into the wheel well.
• Guide the three upper studs through the strut tower holes.
• Install the new upper mount nuts by hand first.
• Use an 18mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts evenly.
• Do not fully torque them yet.

Step 13: Seat the Strut into the Lower Clevis

• Align the lower strut body with the clevis bracket.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to gently raise or lower the control arm until the holes line up.
• Use the paint marker marks as a rough guide for strut depth.
• Install the lower strut-to-clevis bolt by hand.

Step 14: Install the Clevis-to-Lower-Control-Arm Bolt

• Line up the clevis with the lower control arm using the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Slide the clevis-to-lower-control-arm bolt through by hand.
• Install the nut by hand before tightening.

Step 15: Torque the Lower Fasteners

• Use a 24mm socket, 24mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the clevis-to-lower-control-arm fastener.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the lower strut-to-clevis fastener.
• Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use an 18mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts evenly.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Do not tighten the large center nut on the loaded strut.

Step 17: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

• Install the sway bar link into its mounting point.
• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the sway bar link nut.
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire brackets.
• Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are routed the same way as before.
• Turn the steering by hand left and right to confirm nothing pulls tight.

Step 19: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 18 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Do one side at a time.

Step 20: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install the wheels by hand and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle fully.

Step 21: Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to torque the front lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive. Listen for clunks, rattles, or scraping.
• ✅ Recheck that brake hoses and ABS wires are not twisted or stretched.
• ✅ Have a professional 4-wheel alignment performed as soon as possible.
• ✅ After 25-50 miles, recheck the lug nut torque with a 22mm socket and torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $400-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-3.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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