🔧 Forester - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Forester. The strut supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bounce, and helps keep the tire planted on the road.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Forester with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so braking, steering, and ride height stay even.
• ⚠️ If using bare struts, the coil spring must be compressed with a spring compressor. This is dangerous for beginners. Complete strut assemblies are strongly recommended.
• ⚠️ Your Forester has front ABS wheel speed sensor wiring and brake hose brackets attached near the strut. Do not pull or stretch them.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive rated 150 ft-lbs minimum
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 12mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Socket extension 6-inch
• Paint marker
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Brake hose bracket clips or bolts - Qty: as needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Forester on flat, solid ground.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔧 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🛞 Work on one side at a time so you can compare the other side if needed.
• 📌 A complete strut assembly includes the spring, strut, upper mount, and bearing already assembled. This avoids spring compression.
• 📏 Marking the original strut-to-knuckle position helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Tip: Loosen before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Forester at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds or approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Leave the floor jack lightly touching as a backup support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts fully.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use the paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the large metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• This mark helps keep the wheel angle close until your alignment is done.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use the 12mm socket or 12mm wrench to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use the 10mm wrench or needle-nose pliers to release any ABS wire clip attached to the strut bracket.
• Move the brake hose and ABS wire aside gently.
• Do not disconnect the brake hose.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link from the Strut

• The stabilizer link is a small vertical link that connects the sway bar to the strut and helps reduce body roll.
• Spray the stabilizer link nut with penetrating oil.
• Use the 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the stabilizer link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct internal hex or wrench feature if equipped, while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Move the stabilizer link away from the strut.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area with light pressure only.
• This keeps the knuckle from dropping when the strut bolts are removed.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Spray the two lower strut bolts and nuts with penetrating oil.
• Use the 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the two strut-to-knuckle nuts.
• Remove the nuts and bolts from the strut bracket.
• Use the rubber mallet if the bolts need gentle tapping to slide out.
• Keep the knuckle supported so it does not pull on the axle or brake hose.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Use the 14mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch to remove the three upper nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the final nut.
• Do not remove the center nut on the strut shaft.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Use both hands to guide the strut assembly down and out of the wheel well.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch only if you need gentle clearance between the strut bracket and knuckle.
• Do not pry against the brake hose, ABS wire, or CV axle boot.

Step 11: Install the New Complete Strut Assembly

• Position the new complete strut assembly into the wheel well.
• Line up the upper studs with the holes in the strut tower.
• Install the upper mount nuts by hand first.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch drive to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise or lower the knuckle slightly until the bolt holes line up.
• Install the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts from the same direction they were removed.
• Install the new nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive rated 150 ft-lbs minimum to tighten the strut-to-knuckle fasteners to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Line up the paint marks as closely as possible while tightening.

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use the 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the nut to Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Position the brake hose bracket back on the strut.
• Use the 12mm socket or 12mm wrench to install and tighten the bracket bolt to Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Use the needle-nose pliers to secure the ABS wire clip back into its bracket if equipped.
• Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted or stretched.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps to replace the front strut assembly on the opposite side.
• Compare hose routing and bracket positions to the side you just completed.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place the wheels back on the hubs.
• Start all lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift slightly, then remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Forester until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
• Fully lower the vehicle and remove the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
• ✅ Check that both brake hoses and ABS wires move freely and are clipped into place.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive on a smooth road first.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, the vehicle pulls, or warning lights appear, stop driving and inspect the work.
• ✅ Get a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing the struts.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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