🔧 Tucson - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front suspension strut assemblies on your Tucson. The struts support the vehicle, control bounce, and help keep the tires planted during braking and turns.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs on the same axle so the suspension stays balanced.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid, level ground. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Struts contain a compressed coil spring. A coil spring stores dangerous energy and can cause serious injury if released incorrectly.
• ⚠️ For a beginner, use complete loaded strut assemblies if available. A loaded strut comes preassembled with the spring, mount, and bearing already installed.
• ⚠️ If reusing the old coil springs, a professional-grade strut spring compressor is required. Do not use cheap or damaged spring compressors.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after front strut replacement because the strut-to-knuckle bolts affect wheel alignment.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Strut spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Brake hose bracket bolts - Qty: 2
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• ✅ Park your Tucson on level ground and set the parking brake.
• ✅ Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
• ✅ Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• ✅ Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, stabilizer link nut, and brake hose bracket bolt. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• ✅ Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on each strut tower.
• ✅ A strut tower is the reinforced metal area at the top of the wheel well where the strut attaches to the body.
• ✅ Mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle with a paint marker before removal to help keep alignment close enough for the drive to the alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front wheel lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the approved front side pinch weld support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lift point as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to draw a line across the lower strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• This mark helps you reinstall the new strut close to the old position.
• This does not replace alignment.

Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose Bracket

• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Move the brake hose aside gently.
• Do not pull, twist, or let the brake hose hang tight.

Step 6: Disconnect the ABS Wire Bracket

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive if the ABS wire bracket is bolted to the strut.
• If the wire is held by a plastic clip, use a trim clip removal tool to release it carefully.
• The ABS wire is the small electrical cable that goes to the wheel speed sensor.

Step 7: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut

• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the link stud spins, hold the stud with a 17mm wrench while turning the nut with the 17mm socket.
• The stabilizer bar link is the small vertical link that connects the sway bar to the strut.
• Move the link away from the strut.

Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm to lightly support the suspension.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stretching the brake hose or axle.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 19mm wrench on the bolt head and a 21mm socket with breaker bar 1/2-inch drive on the nut.
• Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts.
• Tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet. If needed, use a pry bar 18-inch gently to relieve tension.
• Keep one hand on the knuckle so it does not flop outward.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Leave one nut threaded on a few turns until you are ready to hold the strut from below.
• Support the strut with one hand, then remove the last nut with the 14mm socket.

Step 11: Remove the Strut Assembly

• Lower the strut carefully out through the wheel well.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to guide the strut away from the knuckle.
• Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 12: If Using Loaded Struts, Compare the New Assembly

• Place the old strut and new loaded strut side by side.
• Make sure the lower bracket, spring orientation, upper mount studs, and brake hose tabs match.
• Use a paint marker to mark the forward-facing direction on the new strut if needed.

Step 13: If Reusing Springs, Transfer the Spring Safely

• Use a strut spring compressor (specialty) to compress the spring evenly on opposite sides.
• A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so the top mount can be removed safely.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the center strut shaft nut only after the spring is fully compressed and loose on the seat.
• Transfer the dust boot, bump stop, spring, upper mount, and bearing if they are being reused.
• Install the center nut and tighten it with the 17mm socket.
• Torque to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs)
• Release the strut spring compressor (specialty) slowly and evenly.
• Loaded struts are safer.

Step 14: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new strut up into the strut tower from the wheel well.
• Install the three upper mount nuts by hand first.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the nuts only.
• Do not fully tighten them yet.

Step 15: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Raise or lower the suspension slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) until the knuckle lines up with the strut bracket.
• Install the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand.
• Use a 19mm wrench on the bolt head and a 21mm socket with torque wrench 1/2-inch drive on the nut.
• Align your paint marks as closely as possible.
• Torque to 180-200 Nm (133-148 ft-lbs)

Step 16: Tighten the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Torque to 45-55 Nm (33-41 ft-lbs)

Step 17: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Install the stabilizer bar link into the strut bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the nut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench.
• Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs)

Step 18: Reconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to install the brake hose bracket bolt.
• Torque to 8-12 Nm (71-106 in-lbs)
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to install the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped.
• Torque to 7-10 Nm (62-89 in-lbs)
• If equipped with a plastic ABS wire clip, press it fully into the strut bracket by hand.

Step 19: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4-18 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Always replace the left and right front struts together.

Step 20: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each wheel back onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 21: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for binding, clunks, or rubbing.
• ✅ Road test slowly first. Listen for loose hardware over small bumps.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the short test drive using a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately after replacing the front struts.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, avoid highway driving until alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $400-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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