🔧 Expedition - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Expedition. The strut assembly supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tires firmly on the road.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Strut assemblies are under high spring pressure. Use complete loaded strut assemblies whenever possible. Do not disassemble the coil spring unless you have a professional spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Your Expedition is heavy. Use a floor jack and jack stands rated for the vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so ride height, braking, and handling stay balanced.
• ⚠️ Do not stretch or pull on the front brake hoses, ABS wheel speed sensor wiring, or ride-height/CCD suspension wiring if equipped.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for front strut replacement, but keep the ignition OFF during the repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 ft-lb minimum)
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 30mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Ratchet set
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar set
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Needle-nose pliers
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front lower strut mounting hardware - Qty: 2 sets
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front lower ball joint nut - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Expedition on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📏 Measure from the center of each front wheel hub to the lower edge of the fender. Write this down as a ride-height reference.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut bolt and suspension fasteners before removal. This helps you get close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.
• 🔌 If your Expedition has electronically controlled damping, unplug the strut electrical connector carefully before removal. A connector is a plastic plug that joins the wiring harness to the strut.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Expedition at the front frame crossmember or approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front frame rails.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Disconnect Strut Wiring if Equipped

• If your Expedition has electronic damping, use your fingers or a trim clip removal tool to release the strut wiring retainers.
• Unplug the connector by pressing the locking tab and pulling straight back.
• Do not pull on the wires.

Step 5: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the arm. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• The lower control arm is the large metal arm connecting the wheel hub to the frame.

Step 6: Remove the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Control Arm

• Use an 18mm wrench and appropriate socket from your ratchet set to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the lower control arm.
• Move the link aside carefully.
• The stabilizer bar link connects the suspension to the anti-roll bar and helps reduce body lean.

Step 7: Separate the Lower Ball Joint

• Use a 24mm socket or 24mm wrench from your tool set to remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• If needed, tap the separator with a hammer.
• Do not hammer directly on the ball joint threads.
• The ball joint is a pivot joint that lets the suspension move while steering.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Mounting Bolt

• Use a 30mm socket, 22mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the lower strut mounting nut and bolt.
• Use a pry bar set only as needed to reduce tension while pulling the bolt out.
• Keep the lower control arm supported with the floor jack.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a trim clip removal tool if any plastic trim or covers block access to the upper strut mount.
• Use a 15mm socket from your ratchet set to remove the three upper strut mounting nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand as the final nut comes off.
• Do not remove the center nut on the strut assembly.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Lower the floor jack slightly under the lower control arm.
• Use your hands and a pry bar set carefully to guide the strut out through the wheel well.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose. Use a bungee cord to support it if needed.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Position the new front loaded strut assembly into the strut tower.
• Install the new upper mounting nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install the Lower Strut Bolt

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the control arm until the lower strut eye lines up with the mounting holes.
• Slide the lower strut bolt through by hand.
• Install the nut by hand.
• Use a 30mm socket, 22mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower strut mounting bolt to Torque to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use the floor jack to guide the lower control arm back into position.
• Install the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install a new lower ball joint nut by hand.
• Use a 24mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower ball joint nut to Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the lower control arm.
• Install a new nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm wrench and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench with the correct socket from your ratchet set to tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reconnect Strut Wiring if Equipped

• Plug the electronic damping connector back into the strut until it clicks.
• Use your hands or needle-nose pliers to reinstall wiring clips in their original locations.
• Make sure the wiring cannot rub the tire, spring, or control arm.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque values.
• Always replace struts in pairs.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place the wheels back on the hubs.
• Install lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner gently. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Start your Expedition and check for suspension warning messages if equipped with electronic damping.
• ✅ Road test slowly first. Listen for clunks, rubbing, or knocking.
• ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately. New struts can change camber and toe, which affects tire wear and steering.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,100-$1,900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $500-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.