🔧 Outback - Front Strut Replacement

Replacing the front struts on your Outback restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact with the road. This job requires safely lifting the vehicle, removing the front strut assemblies, and installing complete replacement struts or transferring the coil springs with a proper spring compressor.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs are under very high tension. Use extreme caution if transferring springs.
• ⚠️ For a beginner, complete loaded strut assemblies are strongly recommended because the spring is already installed.
• ⚠️ Never remove the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a quality spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Always support your Outback with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs on the same axle to keep braking and handling balanced.
• ⚠️ Your Outback has ABS wheel speed sensor wiring near the strut. Do not stretch, pinch, or twist this wiring.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 6-inch extension
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut shaft pass-through socket set (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assemblies - Driver: 1, Passenger: 1 - Replace in pairs
• Front sway bar end link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on level ground.
• Set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive.
• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on each front strut tower.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
• Do not loosen the center nut on top of the strut. That nut holds the spring assembly together.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Outback.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
• Never trust the jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the front lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels by hand.
• Slide the wheels under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the suspension, not lift the vehicle.
• The steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• This prevents the axle, brake hose, and ABS wire from being pulled downward.

Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• This helps keep the camber close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.
• Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the tire when viewed from the front.
• Marks help, but alignment is still required.

Step 5: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 12mm socket or needle-nose pliers to release the ABS wire bracket from the strut, depending on the clip style.
• Move the brake hose and ABS wire aside gently.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar End Link

• Use a 17mm wrench on the sway bar end link nut.
• If the end link stud spins, hold the stud with the correct internal hex or wrench surface while removing the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Remove the end link from the strut bracket by hand.
• The sway bar end link connects the strut to the stabilizer bar to reduce body roll in turns.

Step 7: Loosen the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and 19mm wrench to loosen the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
• Remove the nuts first, then tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet if needed.
• Keep one bolt loosely installed until the upper nuts are loosened so the strut does not fall.

Step 8: Loosen the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove two of the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Loosen the third nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to hold the strut.
• Do not touch the center strut shaft nut.

Step 9: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Hold the strut body with one hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the last upper strut mount nut.
• Remove the remaining lower strut-to-knuckle bolt by hand.
• Guide the strut assembly out through the wheel opening.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if the strut bracket is lightly stuck to the steering knuckle.

Step 10: If Using Loaded Struts, Compare the New Assembly

• Place the new front loaded strut assembly next to the old one.
• Make sure the spring orientation, brake hose bracket, ABS wire bracket, and upper mount studs match.
• Loaded struts are complete assemblies with the spring and mount already installed.
• If anything does not match, do not install it.

Step 11: If Reusing Springs, Transfer Parts Carefully

• Use a coil spring compressor (specialty) to compress the spring evenly on opposite sides.
• A coil spring compressor clamps the spring so the strut can be safely disassembled.
• Use a strut shaft pass-through socket set (specialty) to remove the center strut shaft nut only after the spring is fully compressed.
• Transfer the spring, upper mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Tighten the center shaft nut with the strut shaft pass-through socket set (specialty). Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Release the coil spring compressor (specialty) slowly and evenly.
• If you are not experienced with spring compressors, stop and use loaded struts instead.

Step 12: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new strut assembly into the strut tower by hand.
• Install the three new upper mounting nuts by hand to hold it in place.
• Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch extension, and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the upper nuts. Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten the upper mount nuts because the studs can strip.

Step 13: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Raise or lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm until the strut bracket lines up with the steering knuckle.
• Install the new lower strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand.
• Use a paint marker alignment mark to position the knuckle close to the original location.
• Install the new nuts by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lower strut bolts. Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Insert the sway bar end link stud into the strut bracket by hand.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm wrench and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive with the correct socket if access allows. Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• If the stud spins, hold the stud while tightening the nut with the 17mm wrench.

Step 15: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Position the brake hose bracket on the strut.
• Use a 12mm socket, 6-inch extension, and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the bracket bolt. Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Reclip the ABS wire bracket by hand or with needle-nose pliers.
• Turn the steering wheel by hand from side to side and confirm the wire and hose do not stretch.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3-15 on the other front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque values.
• Always replace both front struts as a pair.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install both front wheels by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower your Outback to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Check that the brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped securely and not rubbing.
• Listen for clunks while slowly turning the steering wheel in both directions.
• Take a short, low-speed test drive on a smooth road.
• Stop and recheck the lower strut bolts, sway bar end links, and lug nuts.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. Strut removal changes alignment angles.
• Avoid hard cornering or high-speed driving until the alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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