How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017-2025 Mazda CX-5 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017-2025 Mazda CX-5 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 CX-5 - Front Strut Assembly Replacement
This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your CX-5. The strut supports vehicle weight, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tire planted on the road, so worn struts can cause clunking, nose-diving, uneven tire wear, or poor handling.
Recommendation: Replace front struts in pairs so both sides handle evenly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always support your CX-5 with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Strut coil springs store a lot of energy. Use complete loaded strut assemblies if you are a beginner.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor.
- ⚠️ If replacing bare struts only, a coil spring compressor is required and must be used carefully.
- ⚠️ Keep brake hoses, ABS sensor wires, and axle boots from being stretched or pinched.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut replacement.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive, 20-250 Nm range
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive, 10-80 Nm range
- Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- 17mm wrench
- 14mm wrench
- Socket extension 6-inch, 1/2-inch drive
- Socket extension 6-inch, 3/8-inch drive
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Rubber mallet
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil spray
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assembly, driver side - Qty: 1
- Front loaded strut assembly, passenger side - Qty: 1
- Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
Beginner note: A loaded strut assembly comes pre-assembled with the spring, mount, boot, and strut. This avoids compressing the spring.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your CX-5 on level ground.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and stabilizer link nuts. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
- Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on each front strut tower.
- A steering knuckle is the large metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Loose first, lift second.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your CX-5 at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Use mechanic gloves and shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Place the wheels flat under the body as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
- This helps keep the alignment close enough for a safe drive to the alignment shop.
- It does not replace a professional alignment.
Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor wire bracket if attached to the strut.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to release any plastic wire clips from the strut body.
- Move the hose and wire aside gently. Do not pull on them.
Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the stabilizer bar link nut at the strut bracket.
- If the link stud spins, hold the stud with a 14mm wrench while removing the nut with the 14mm socket.
- Move the stabilizer link away from the strut bracket.
- A stabilizer bar link connects the strut to the sway bar, which helps reduce body roll in turns.
Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum lightly under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
- Raise the jack just enough to support the knuckle and suspension.
- Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
- This prevents the axle, brake hose, and ABS wire from stretching when the strut bolts are removed.
Step 8: Loosen the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts.
- If very tight, spray penetrating oil spray and wait a few minutes.
- Do not remove both bolts fully until the knuckle is supported.
Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Open the hood.
- Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch 3/8-inch drive extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove two of the three upper strut mount nuts.
- Loosen the third nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to hold the strut in place.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the strut mount.
Step 10: Remove the Lower Strut Bolts
- Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts.
- Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out if they are snug.
- Support the knuckle with one hand or the jack so it does not fall outward.
Step 11: Remove the Strut Assembly
- Hold the strut from below with one hand.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the final upper mount nut.
- Lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle positioning if needed.
Step 12: Compare the New Strut Assembly
- Set the old and new loaded strut assemblies side by side.
- Check that the spring seat, mounting studs, lower bracket, and hose brackets match.
- If the upper mount has a direction arrow or mark, orient it the same way as the original.
Step 13: Install the New Strut Assembly
- Guide the new strut assembly up through the wheel well.
- Line up the upper strut mount studs with the holes in the strut tower.
- Install the upper mount nuts by hand first.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the upper nuts, but do not fully torque them yet.
- Hand-start nuts to prevent cross-threading.
Step 14: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to adjust the knuckle height until the bolt holes line up.
- Install the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand.
- Install the nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to snug the bolts.
Step 15: Torque the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners to Torque to 156-176 Nm (115-130 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the strut bracket is seated flat against the steering knuckle before final tightening.
Step 16: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch 3/8-inch drive extension, and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 44-54 Nm (32-40 ft-lbs).
- Do not tighten or remove the large center strut shaft nut on a loaded strut assembly.
Step 17: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the strut bracket.
- Install the nut by hand.
- Use a 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the stabilizer link nut to Torque to 43-60 Nm (32-44 ft-lbs).
Step 18: Reconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 19-25 Nm (14-18 ft-lbs).
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the ABS wire bracket bolt to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-88 in-lbs).
- Use a trim clip removal tool only if needed to reseat plastic clips carefully.
- Confirm the hose and wire do not rub the tire or strut spring.
Step 19: Repeat on the Other Side
- Use the same tools and steps to replace the strut assembly on the opposite side.
- Do one side at a time if this is your first suspension job.
- One side can guide the other.
Step 20: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Install the front wheels by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- A star pattern means tightening across the wheel instead of around in a circle.
Step 21: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your CX-5 slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 108-147 Nm (80-108 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce the front of your CX-5 several times to settle the suspension.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, popping, or binding.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first over a smooth road, then over small bumps.
- ✅ Stop and recheck that the brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped in place and not stretched.
- ✅ Schedule a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 including parts, labor, and alignment
DIY Cost: $350-$750 parts only, plus alignment
You Save: $350-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours plus alignment time.
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