🔧 Tacoma - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Tacoma. The safest beginner-friendly approach is to install complete loaded strut assemblies, which include the spring, upper mount, and strut already assembled.

Do both front sides as a pair. This keeps handling, braking, and ride height balanced.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Tacoma with only a floor jack holding it up. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the top of the strut. That nut holds spring pressure and can be dangerous.
• ⚠️ Use loaded strut assemblies if you are new to suspension work. A loaded strut is a preassembled strut with the spring already installed.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wheel-speed sensor wire from stretching when the suspension hangs down.
• ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs, left and right together.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing front struts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer 2-lb
• Needle nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil spray
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front lower strut mounting bolt and nut sets - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Tacoma on flat, solid ground.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the truck from rolling.
• 🔩 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the truck.
• 📏 Measure from the ground to the lower edge of each front fender and write it down.
• 🖊️ Mark the lower strut bolt position with a paint marker before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to a shop.
• 🛞 Plan to get a front wheel alignment immediately after the repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break them loose on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the front crossmember to raise the front of your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Slowly lower the truck onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the truck to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the front lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels.
• Set the wheels flat under the frame area as an added safety backup.

Step 4: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower control arm near the wheel hub.
• Raise the jack just until it supports the arm.
• The lower control arm is the large metal arm that runs from the frame to the bottom of the wheel hub.

Step 5: Move Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any brake hose bracket bolt attached near the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet if the ABS wire bracket uses a smaller bolt.
• Use needle nose pliers to gently release plastic wire clips if needed.
• Do not let the brake hose or ABS wire hang tight.

Step 6: Mark the Lower Strut Bolt Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the lower strut bolt, washer, and bracket position.
• This mark is only a reference. It does not replace a wheel alignment.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Strut Bolt

• Spray the lower strut bolt and nut with penetrating oil spray.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the lower strut nut and bolt.
• Remove the nut.
• Slide the bolt out by hand.
• If stuck, tap it gently with a dead blow hammer 2-lb.
• For reassembly, tighten the lower strut bolt to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove the Upper Strut Mounting Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mounting nuts.
• Do not loosen or remove the center strut shaft nut.
• Hold the strut from below while removing the last upper nut.
• For reassembly, tighten the upper strut mounting nuts to Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lower the lower control arm slightly.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if you need a little extra clearance.
• Guide the strut down and out through the wheel opening.
• Keep the brake hose and ABS wire out of the way.

Step 10: Position the New Loaded Strut

• Compare the new loaded strut assembly with the old one before installing it.
• Make sure the top studs and lower mount point the same direction as the old strut.
• Guide the new strut into the wheel opening.
• Start the three upper mounting nuts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the upper nuts to Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install the Lower Strut Bolt

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the lower control arm until the bolt holes line up.
• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the smooth part of the lower bolt, not the threads.
• Slide the lower bolt in by hand.
• Install the nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the lower strut bolt to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped.
• Use needle nose pliers to reinstall plastic clips.
• Confirm the hose and wire are not twisted, pulled tight, or rubbing.

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the other front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• One side at a time is easier.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Lift each wheel back onto the hub.
• Start each lug nut by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Truck and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tacoma slightly.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the truck fully to the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 200 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. Your Tacoma should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right. Make sure no brake hose or ABS wire is pulling tight.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive first. Listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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