🔧 Tacoma - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This job replaces the front strut assemblies on your Tacoma. The strut assembly supports the front of the truck, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tires planted on the road.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Tacoma with jack stands before going underneath or removing suspension parts.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the truck; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs. Installing only one can cause uneven handling and braking.
• ⚠️ If replacing only the strut cartridge/spring seat instead of a complete loaded strut assembly, a coil spring compressor is required. The spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ This guide assumes you are installing complete loaded front strut assemblies with springs already installed.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement because suspension position changes can affect tire wear and steering.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut lower mounting nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut mounting bolts, upper strut nuts, and sway bar link nuts. Let it soak for several minutes.
• Use the paint marker to mark the position of bolts and washers before removal. This helps you reinstall parts close to their original position.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Truck

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front crossmember to lift the front of your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the truck a light shake to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the frame as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Disconnect the Front Stabilizer Bar Link

• The stabilizer bar link, also called a sway bar link, connects the suspension to the anti-roll bar and helps reduce body lean in turns.
• Use the 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the lower control arm area if it blocks strut removal.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Move the stabilizer bar link aside carefully.

Step 5: Support the Lower Control Arm

• The lower control arm is the large suspension arm below the strut.
• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm and lift it just enough to support the arm.
• Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
• Support removes bolt tension.

Step 6: Mark the Lower Strut Mount Position

• Use the paint marker to mark the lower strut bolt, nut, washers, and bracket position.
• This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop safely.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Strut Mounting Bolt

• Use the 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the lower strut mounting nut and bolt.
• If the bolt is tight, use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar for extra leverage.
• Use the rubber mallet to tap the bolt out if needed.
• Do not use a steel hammer directly on the bolt threads.

Step 8: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the three upper strut mounting nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mounting nuts.
• Do not remove the center nut on the strut assembly. The center nut holds the spring assembly together.
• Never remove the center nut.

Step 9: Remove the Strut Assembly

• Lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) slightly to create room between the lower control arm and strut.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch carefully if the lower strut eye is stuck in the bracket.
• Remove the strut assembly through the wheel opening.
• Be careful not to stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 10: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Position the new front loaded strut assembly into the strut tower.
• Install the three upper mounting nuts by hand first.
• Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the upper strut mounting nuts to Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install the Lower Strut Mounting Bolt

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to slowly raise or lower the lower control arm until the lower strut holes line up.
• Slide the lower strut mounting bolt through the bracket and strut eye.
• Install the lower mounting nut by hand.
• Use the 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower strut mounting nut to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Move the stabilizer bar link back into position.
• Install the nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the opposite front strut.
• Always replace both front struts as a pair.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place the wheels back onto the hubs.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower your Tacoma fully to the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce the front of your Tacoma gently. It should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Check that brake hoses and ABS wires are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive. Listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing noises.
• ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing the struts.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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