🔧 Pilot - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Pilot. The front strut is a combined shock absorber and coil spring unit that supports the front of the vehicle and controls bounce.

For a first-time DIYer, the safest method is replacing the complete loaded strut assembly, also called a quick strut. This avoids compressing the coil spring, which can be dangerous.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so your Pilot handles and brakes evenly.
• ⚠️ Never work under the vehicle with only a jack holding it. Use jack stands every time.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the strut shaft unless the spring is safely compressed with proper equipment.
• ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if you are new to suspension work.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wheel speed sensor wire supported. Do not let them stretch.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for front strut replacement.
• ⚠️ Your Pilot will need a professional wheel alignment after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 6-inch socket extension
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 22mm combination wrench
• 5mm hex key socket
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Ball-peen hammer 16-ounce
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord 24-inch
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete loaded strut assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts - Qty: 4
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2

Note: Replace struts in pairs. If your new loaded struts include new upper nuts or other hardware, use the supplied new hardware.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Pilot on level ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Open the hood before lifting the vehicle.
• Use a paint marker to mark the original strut-to-knuckle position. This helps keep alignment close enough for the drive to the alignment shop.
• Spray the strut-to-knuckle bolts and stabilizer link nuts with penetrating oil.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise your Pilot.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Lightly push the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the wheel hub and brake assembly.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the suspension. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.

Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor wire bracket bolt if attached to the strut.
• Use a bungee cord 24-inch to gently support the hose and wire away from your work area.
• Do not open the brake hydraulic line.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link from the Strut

• The stabilizer link is a short rod that connects the sway bar to the strut to reduce body roll in turns.
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen the stabilizer link nut at the strut.
• If the stud spins, hold the center of the stud with a 5mm hex key socket and turn the nut with a 17mm combination wrench.
• Move the link away from the strut by hand.

Step 7: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use a paint marker to draw lines across the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• This does not replace an alignment, but it helps keep the wheels close enough for a short drive.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the strut-to-knuckle bolt heads.
• Use a 22mm combination wrench to hold the nuts.
• Remove both nuts first.
• Tap the bolts out using a ball-peen hammer 16-ounce. Use a rubber mallet if you need gentler force.
• Keep one hand on the steering knuckle so it does not swing outward.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mounting nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove two of the three upper nuts.
• Loosen the last nut, but keep it threaded on a few turns to hold the strut in place.
• Do not remove the large center strut shaft nut.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Hold the strut with one hand from inside the wheel well.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the final upper mounting nut.
• Guide the strut down and out of the wheel well.
• If it catches, use a pry bar 18-inch gently between the lower bracket and knuckle area.

Step 11: Compare the New Strut Assembly

• Place the old and new struts side by side.
• Check that the lower bracket, upper mount studs, spring position, and left/right orientation match.
• Many struts are side-specific. Install the left strut on the left side and the right strut on the right side.

Step 12: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut assembly into the wheel well.
• Line up the upper studs with the holes in the strut tower.
• Install the upper mounting nuts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts, but do not fully torque them yet.

Step 13: Connect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the lower control arm until the knuckle lines up with the strut bracket.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully if the holes need slight alignment.
• Slide the two strut-to-knuckle bolts through by hand.
• Install the new nuts by hand.

Step 14: Torque the Lower Strut Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm combination wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the strut-to-knuckle nuts to Torque to 157 Nm (116 ft-lbs).
• Keep your paint marks as close to the original position as possible while tightening.

Step 15: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mounting nuts to Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Do not tighten or remove the large center strut shaft nut.

Step 16: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the stabilizer link nut to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 5mm hex key socket and tighten the nut with a 17mm combination wrench.

Step 17: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Place the brake hose bracket back onto the strut.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the bracket bolt snugly.
• Reattach the ABS wire bracket using a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet.
• Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing the tire.

Step 18: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4-17 on the opposite front strut using the same tools.
• Keep left and right struts on the correct sides.

Step 19: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Lift each wheel onto the hub.
• Install each lug nut by hand first.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.

Step 20: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Pilot slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front lug nuts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check for clunks, pulling, or steering wheel off-center.
• ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing front struts.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench.
• ✅ Reinspect brake hose and ABS wire routing after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $400-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours plus alignment time.

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