🔧 HR-V - Front Strut Replacement

This procedure replaces the front strut assemblies on your HR-V. The strut is the main front suspension unit that supports the vehicle, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tire planted on the road.

For a beginner, replacing complete loaded strut assemblies is much safer than swapping springs onto bare struts. A loaded strut comes with the spring already installed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your HR-V with jack stands before working underneath or near the suspension.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle, but jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Coil springs are under very high pressure. If you are not installing complete loaded strut assemblies, a spring compressor is required and can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs. Replacing only one side can cause uneven handling and braking feel.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement because the strut-to-knuckle position affects camber and steering angle.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 12mm combination wrench
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 6mm hex key socket
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1
• Front loaded strut assembly - Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your HR-V on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Open the hood so you can access the upper strut mount nuts.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nuts. Let it soak for 5-10 minutes.
• If using bare struts instead of loaded assemblies, do not loosen the center strut shaft nut until the spring is safely compressed with a coil spring compressor.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen while tires touch ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your HR-V at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the proper front side support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside flat.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut against the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the metal part that the wheel hub and brake assembly attach to.
• This mark helps keep the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 12mm combination wrench to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• If equipped with an ABS wire bracket on the strut, use a 10mm or 12mm socket as fitted to remove the bracket bolt.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flat blade screwdriver to release any plastic clips carefully.
• Do not pull, kink, or stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.
• During reassembly, tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link from the Strut

• Use a 17mm socket or 17mm combination wrench to remove the stabilizer link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold the center of the stud with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with a 17mm combination wrench.
• The stabilizer link connects the strut to the sway bar, which helps reduce body roll in turns.
• Move the link out of the strut bracket.
• During reassembly, tighten the stabilizer link nut to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or hub area.
• Raise it only enough to support the knuckle.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This prevents the brake hose and axle from being pulled down when the strut is removed.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm combination wrench to remove the two large lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
• If the bolts are tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out if needed.
• Keep one hand on the knuckle so it does not fall outward.
• During reassembly, tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners to 116 Nm (86 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• From under the hood, locate the three upper strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove two of the three upper nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand, then remove the final upper nut with the 14mm socket.
• Do not remove the large center shaft nut on top of the strut assembly.
• Lower the strut out through the wheel opening.
• During reassembly, tighten the upper strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Position the new loaded strut into the wheel well.
• Guide the upper studs through the strut tower holes.
• Install the upper nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the upper nuts, but do not fully torque them yet.
• Make sure the left and right struts are installed on the correct sides.

Step 11: Reconnect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack to adjust the knuckle height until the bolt holes line up.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if gentle alignment help is needed.
• Install the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
• Align the strut close to your paint marks.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm combination wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower fasteners to 116 Nm (86 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the nut by hand first.
• Use a 17mm socket or 17mm combination wrench to tighten the nut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket.
• Tighten the stabilizer link nut to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt onto the strut.
• Use a 10mm or 12mm socket as fitted to reinstall any ABS wire bracket fastener.
• Make sure the hose and wire follow their original path and are not twisted.
• Tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Torque each upper nut evenly to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Do not tighten the large center shaft nut unless the strut manufacturer specifically instructs you to check it.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Do one side at a time.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install both front wheels by hand.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to torque the lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Bounce and Visual Check

• Push down firmly on the front of the vehicle a few times to settle the suspension.
• Use a flashlight if needed to inspect both sides.
• Confirm the brake hoses, ABS wires, stabilizer links, and lower bolts are secure.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks, rubbing, or pulling.
• ✅ Have a four-wheel alignment performed as soon as possible after replacing the struts.
• ✅ Recheck front lug nut torque after 25-50 miles. Torque remains 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, do not ignore it. That is another sign the alignment needs correction.
• ✅ New struts may feel firmer at first. That is normal if the old struts were worn out.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $350-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.