How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015 Honda Civic (MacPherson Suspension)
Step-by-step front strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014, 2015
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015 Honda Civic (MacPherson Suspension)
Step-by-step front strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014, 2015
🔧 Civic - Front Strut Replacement
On your Civic, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring as one unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear control.
Assumption: You’re replacing the front struts; the rear of your Civic uses separate shocks and springs (not a “rear strut”).
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never remove the strut top center nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a spring compressor.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path; a coil spring stores dangerous energy.
- ⚠️ Don’t let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it.
- ⚠️ If you use a spring compressor, inspect it for damage before use.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench (19mm)
- Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
- Wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range)
- Flat trim tool
- Pry bar (18")
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Dead-blow hammer
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut (damper) - Left - Qty: 1
- Front strut (damper) - Right - Qty: 1
- Front strut mount (top mount/bearing) - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Qty: 2
- Front coil spring - Qty: 2 (replace if sagged/rusted/noisy)
- Front stabilizer (sway bar) end link - Qty: 2 (recommended if boots are torn or joints are loose)
- Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts (strut-to-knuckle hardware) - Qty: 1 kit (recommended)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose using a 19mm lug wrench before lifting.
- Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
- If you’re using a spring compressor, pre-read its instructions (it clamps the coil spring so it can’t “launch”).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jack point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side pinch welds and lower the car onto them.
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Unclip brake hose and ABS wire from the strut
- Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 10mm socket.
- Unclip any ABS wire retainers using a flat trim tool and needle-nose pliers.
- Tip: Don’t pull on the wire itself.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
- If the stud spins, hold it steady while loosening (common on older links).
Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies by hardware) and a breaker bar (1/2").
- Tap bolts out using a dead-blow hammer if needed.
- Torque on install (common OEM spec): Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the strut top mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- Remove the three top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then lower it out.
- Torque on install (common OEM spec): Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Step 7: Swap the strut (two options)
- Option A (recommended): Install complete quick-strut assemblies (pre-built strut + spring + mount). No spring compressor needed.
- Option B: Rebuild your strut assembly using a spring compressor (specialty) (clamps the coil spring so you can safely remove the mount).
- If rebuilding: compress the spring evenly, then remove the top center nut using a 17mm socket and wrench set as needed.
- Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order and orientation.
Step 8: Install the strut back into the car
- Guide the strut into the strut tower and start the three top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
- Slide the steering knuckle into place and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct 17mm/19mm sockets.
- Reattach the sway bar end link using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
- Reinstall the brake hose bracket and ABS clips using a 10mm socket and flat trim tool.
Step 9: Final tightening with the vehicle supported safely
- Tighten the top mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range).
- Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).
- Top mount nuts (common OEM spec): Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts (common OEM spec): Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).
- Wheel lug nuts (common OEM spec): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and make sure no brake hose/ABS wire is stretched or rubbing.
- Test drive slowly first; listen for clunks over bumps.
- Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (strut removal can change alignment).
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs rebuild)
You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















