🔧 Murano - Front Strut Replacement

The front struts combine the shock absorber, coil spring, and upper mount into one assembly. Replacing both sides restores ride control and prevents uneven handling; complete preassembled struts are the safest choice for a beginner.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers both front struts; the steps are the same for front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so damping remains balanced.
• ⚠️ Support your Murano with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ A compressed coil spring stores enough energy to cause severe injury. Use a professional wall-mounted compressor or install complete preassembled struts.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the center piston-rod nut while the spring is under load.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so its weight cannot pull on the brake hose or wheel-speed-sensor wire.
• ⚠️ Do not allow grease, oil, or penetrating fluid to contact the brake rotor or pads.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm deep socket
• 18mm deep socket
• 16mm socket
• 13mm deep socket
• 6mm hex-bit socket
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated 10-100 Nm
• Torque wrench rated 40-200 Nm
• 18mm combination wrench
• 21mm combination wrench
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Plastic trim removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Rubber mallet
• Hydraulic transmission jack rated 500kg minimum
• Paint marker
• Penetrating lubricant
• Wall-mounted coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut piston-rod pass-through socket set (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front left strut assembly - Qty: 1
• Front right strut assembly - Qty: 1
• Front strut upper mounts and bearings - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boots and bump stops - Qty: 2
• Front strut lower mounting nuts - Qty: 4
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer-link nuts - Qty: 2

Recommended beginner option: Use left and right preassembled strut units containing the spring, mount, bearing, boot, and bump stop. Replace in pairs.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Murano on firm, level ground. Select Park and apply the parking brake.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks tightly behind both rear tires.
• 📏 Measure from the center of each front wheel to the fender edge. This provides a useful ride-height reference.
• 🧰 Open the hood and locate the three upper mounting nuts around each front strut tower. Do not loosen the large center nut.
• 🔩 Spray penetrating lubricant on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer-link nuts. Keep it away from brake parts.
• 📱 No infotainment service mode, scan-tool command, battery registration, or electronic calibration mode is required.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

• Use a 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while the tires are still supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use the hydraulic floor jack at the front-center subframe lifting point.
• Place the jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points, then lower your Murano onto them.
• Gently push the body to confirm it is stable before continuing.

Step 3: Remove Both Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and slide them away from the work area.

Step 4: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Position the hydraulic transmission jack beneath the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise it only enough to carry the knuckle’s weight. Do not lift your Murano off its jack stand.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal carrier holding the wheel hub and brake assembly.

Step 5: Detach the Brake Hose and Sensor-Wire Brackets

• Use the appropriate 13mm socket or 16mm socket to remove the bracket fasteners from the strut.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver and needle-nose pliers carefully if a retaining clip must be released.
• Move the hose and wheel-speed-sensor wire aside without stretching, twisting, or disconnecting them.
• Photograph each bracket before removal.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Use an 18mm combination wrench or 18mm deep socket to remove the upper stabilizer-link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold its center with a 6mm hex-bit socket while turning the nut with the 18mm combination wrench.
• Swing the link away without damaging its rubber boot.

Step 7: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use a paint marker to outline the strut flange against the steering knuckle.
• These marks help preserve the approximate camber position, but they do not replace a professional alignment.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Fasteners

• Continue supporting the lower control arm with the hydraulic transmission jack.
• Use a 21mm deep socket, 21mm combination wrench, and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen the two strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
• Remove the nuts, then withdraw the bolts. Use a rubber mallet gently if a bolt is stuck.
• Do not let the knuckle fall outward or hang from the brake hose.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Mounting Nuts

• Hold the strut firmly with one hand.
• From the engine compartment, use a 13mm deep socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
• Do not remove or loosen the large center piston-rod nut.
• Guide the complete strut assembly downward and out through the wheel opening.

Step 10: Transfer Components Only if Necessary

• Skip this step when installing a complete preassembled strut.
• If reusing the original spring, take the removed strut to a repair facility with a wall-mounted coil spring compressor. A coil spring compressor safely restrains the spring while the center nut is removed.
• Compress the spring evenly until it no longer presses against the upper mount.
• Use the correctly sized tool from the strut piston-rod pass-through socket set to remove the center nut while holding the rod stationary.
• Transfer the spring, new bump stop, new dust boot, and new upper mount onto the replacement strut in their original orientation.
• Have the piston-rod nut tightened to the specification supplied with the replacement strut. Different strut brands use different rod threads and torque values.
• Slowly release the compressor while confirming both spring ends remain seated against their stops.

Step 11: Position the Replacement Strut

• Confirm the strut is marked for the correct left or right side.
• Guide the assembly into the wheel opening and insert its upper studs through the body.
• Install the three new upper mounting nuts by hand so the strut can still move slightly.
• Use a 13mm deep socket and low-range torque wrench to tighten the upper mounting nuts evenly to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
• Never apply that torque to the large center piston-rod nut.

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the hydraulic transmission jack to raise or lower the knuckle until its holes align with the strut flange.
• Insert the two lower bolts in their original direction and install new nuts by hand.
• Align the paint marks, then use the 21mm deep socket, 21mm combination wrench, and high-range torque wrench to tighten both fasteners to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer-link stud through the strut bracket and install a new nut.
• Use the 18mm combination wrench and 6mm hex-bit socket if the stud turns.
• Use the 18mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Hose and Sensor-Wire Brackets

• Return every brake-hose and wheel-speed-sensor bracket to its original position.
• Start each fastener by hand, then tighten it with the same 13mm socket or 16mm socket used during removal.
• Confirm the hose and wire do not rub the tire, spring, axle, or steering linkage through the steering range.

Step 15: Replace the Opposite Strut

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other side using the same listed tools.
• Keep left- and right-side assemblies separate because they are not interchangeable.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

• Install both wheels and thread all wheel nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack to raise your Murano, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm deep socket and high-range torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Inspect both sides and verify every hose bracket, sensor-wire clip, stabilizer link, and mounting fastener is secure.
• 🔄 Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel fully left and right. Stop if you hear binding or see a hose or wire being pulled.
• 🚙 Drive slowly over a smooth road first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering returns normally.
• 📐 Arrange a four-wheel alignment immediately. Strut removal changes front camber and toe even when alignment marks were used.
• 🔩 Recheck the wheel-nut torque at 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) after 80-160 km.
• 🛑 If the ABS or stability-control warning remains illuminated, inspect the front wheel-speed-sensor wiring before driving farther.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹45,000-₹85,000 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹20,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates around Sonīpat vary widely. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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