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2018 Ford Edge
2015 - 2024 Ford Edge

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Front Struts & Sway Bar Link Replacement (2015–2021 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, Lincoln Nautilus)

Front Struts & Sway Bar Link Replacement (2015–2021 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, Lincoln Nautilus)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2024 Ford Edge

Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2024 Ford Edge

Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

🔧 Edge - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Edge. The struts support the front suspension, control bounce, and help keep the tires stable while braking and turning.

For a first-time DIYer, use loaded strut assemblies. A loaded strut comes preassembled with the coil spring and upper mount, so you do not have to compress the spring.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the strut assembly. That nut holds the spring under high tension.
  • ⚠️ Do not use a basic clamp-style spring compressor unless you are trained. A coil spring stores dangerous energy.
  • ⚠️ Support your Edge with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS sensor wire from stretching when the strut is removed.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing front struts.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 30-250 ft-lbs
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 21mm wrench
  • 18mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • 8mm wrench
  • T30 Torx bit socket
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • 18-inch pry bar
  • 24-ounce ball peen hammer
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1
  • Front loaded strut assembly - Right: 1
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Edge on level ground.
  • Set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nuts.
  • Let the penetrating oil soak for 10-15 minutes.
  • A steering knuckle is the large metal part behind the wheel hub that connects the suspension and steering parts.
  • A stabilizer bar link is a short link that connects the sway bar to the strut and helps reduce body lean in turns.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Break them loose on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Edge.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Leave the jack lightly touching the front subframe as a backup.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels.
  • Slide the wheels under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Access the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Look at the top of each strut tower near the windshield side of the engine bay.
  • If the plastic cowl blocks access, use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any small cowl fasteners needed for access.
  • Locate the three upper strut mount nuts.
  • Do not remove the large center nut.

Step 5: Mark the Strut Position

  • Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep the wheel position close enough for a short drive to the alignment shop.
  • Marks help, but do not replace alignment.

Step 6: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket or 15mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket from the strut.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to carefully release the ABS sensor wire clip from the strut.
  • Move the hose and wire aside gently.
  • Do not pull hard on either one.

Step 7: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

  • Use an 18mm socket or 18mm wrench to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the strut.
  • If the stud spins, hold the stud with a T30 Torx bit socket or 8mm wrench while turning the nut with an 18mm wrench.
  • Move the stabilizer link away from the strut bracket.

Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle

  • Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area.
  • Raise it just enough to support the weight.
  • This prevents the knuckle from dropping outward and stressing the brake hose or axle.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Strut Bolts

  • Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the two large bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle.
  • Remove the nuts first.
  • Use a 24-ounce ball peen hammer to tap the bolts out if they are stuck.
  • Use an 18-inch pry bar only if needed to gently separate the strut from the knuckle.
  • Keep one hand on the knuckle so it does not flop outward.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Support the strut assembly from below with one hand.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
  • Lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
  • Do not remove the center nut from the old strut assembly.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

  • Guide the new loaded strut assembly up into the strut tower.
  • Install the new upper strut mount nuts by hand first.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts lightly.
  • Do not fully tighten them yet.
  • Make sure the left strut goes on the left side and the right strut goes on the right side.

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

  • Line up the strut bracket with the steering knuckle.
  • Use an 18-inch pry bar only as needed to align the bolt holes.
  • Install the new lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand first.
  • Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower fasteners to Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

  • Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
  • Install the new stabilizer link nut by hand.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nut to Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a T30 Torx bit socket or 8mm wrench while tightening with an 18mm wrench.

Step 14: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

  • Use a 10mm socket or 15mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket on the strut.
  • Use your hand and the trim clip removal tool if needed to clip the ABS wire back into its bracket.
  • Check that the hose and wire are not twisted.
  • Turn the steering knuckle slightly by hand to make sure nothing stretches.

Step 15: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Use a 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
  • Tighten the upper nuts evenly to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
  • Do not tighten the center strut shaft nut.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front strut.
  • Replace front struts in pairs so the suspension feels even side to side.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Place the front wheels back on the hubs.
  • Start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Edge slowly to the ground.

Step 19: Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Tighten each lug nut to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Reinstall Any Cowl Pieces

  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any cowl fasteners removed earlier.
  • Use the trim clip removal tool and your hands to reinstall the plastic clips.
  • Make sure the cowl sits flat and does not touch moving parts.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce each front corner once. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
  • ✅ Start your Edge and turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
  • ✅ Take a slow test drive first. Avoid highway speeds until it feels stable.
  • ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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