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2019 Ford F-150
2014 Ford F-150
FX4
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How to Replace Front Struts 2015-2020 Ford F-150

How to Replace Front Struts 2015-2020 Ford F-150

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)

Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)

Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 F-150 - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

Your F-150 uses front coil-over strut assemblies. Replacing them means safely lifting the truck, removing the wheel, disconnecting the lower strut mount and upper strut nuts, then installing the new assemblies.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Always support your F-150 with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Replace front strut assemblies in pairs so the truck sits and handles evenly.
  • ⚠️ Do not loosen the center nut on the top of the strut assembly. That nut holds spring tension and can be dangerous.
  • ⚠️ If using complete loaded strut assemblies, no spring compressor is needed. A loaded strut means the spring, mount, and shock are preassembled.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering or raising the lower control arm. It can move suddenly.
  • ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity)
  • Torque wrench (100 ft-lb capacity)
  • 18mm wrench
  • 21mm wrench
  • Pry bar
  • Rubber mallet
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front loaded strut assembly - Qty: 2
  • Front lower strut mounting nuts - Qty: 4
  • Front upper strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
  • Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your F-150 on flat, solid ground.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🔒 Shift the transmission into Park and set the parking brake.
  • 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut bolts before removal. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
  • 💧 Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut nuts and upper strut nuts before starting.
  • 📌 This procedure assumes you are installing complete loaded front strut assemblies.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about one turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Truck

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front frame crossmember to lift the front of your F-150.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
  • Slowly lower the truck onto the jack stands.
  • Gently shake the truck to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the frame as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Support the Lower Control Arm

  • Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the lower control arm.
  • The lower control arm is the large metal arm under the strut that moves up and down with the wheel.
  • Raise the jack just enough to support the arm. Do not lift the truck off the jack stand.

Step 5: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets if Attached

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached near the strut area.
  • The ABS wire is the small electrical wire going to the wheel speed sensor.
  • Move the brackets aside gently. Do not stretch the hose or wire.

Step 6: Mark the Lower Strut Mount Position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the lower strut mount and bolt positions.
  • This gives you a reference when installing the new strut assembly.
  • This does not replace an alignment.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Strut Mount Nuts

  • Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the two lower strut mount nuts.
  • Remove the two nuts from the lower strut studs.
  • If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.

Step 8: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
  • Do not remove or loosen the center nut on the strut assembly.
  • Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off so it does not drop suddenly.

Step 9: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

  • Slowly lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm just enough to create space.
  • Use a pry bar carefully if the lower strut studs are stuck in the lower control arm.
  • Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the lower mount if needed.
  • Remove the strut assembly through the wheel opening.

Step 10: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

  • Position the new front loaded strut assembly into the wheel well.
  • Guide the upper studs through the holes in the strut tower first.
  • Install the three new upper nuts by hand to hold it in place.
  • Do not fully tighten them yet.

Step 11: Seat the Lower Strut Mount

  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to slowly raise the lower control arm until the lower strut studs line up.
  • Use a pry bar gently if alignment is slightly off.
  • Install the two new lower strut mounting nuts by hand.
  • Make sure the strut sits flat against the lower control arm.

Step 12: Tighten the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

  • Use a 15mm socket and torque wrench (100 ft-lb capacity) to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
  • Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
  • Tighten the nuts evenly in a triangle pattern.

Step 13: Tighten the Lower Strut Mount Nuts

  • Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity) to tighten the lower strut mount nuts.
  • Torque to 406 Nm (300 ft-lbs)
  • These are very tight fasteners. Make sure your torque wrench is rated high enough.

Step 14: Reinstall Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any removed brake hose or ABS wire brackets.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
  • Check that the hose and wire are not twisted, pinched, or stretched.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 3 through 14 on the opposite front strut assembly.
  • Use the same tools and the same torque specs.
  • Always replace front struts in pairs.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Install the wheels by hand.
  • Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • A star pattern means tightening across the wheel, not around in a circle.

Step 17: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Lower your F-150 to the ground.
  • Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity) to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce the front of the truck lightly and listen for clunks.
  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right to make sure brake hoses and ABS wires do not stretch or rub.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for knocking, popping, or rubbing noises.
  • ✅ Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible after replacing the struts.
  • ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $400-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.


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