🔧 Fusion - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

Replacing the front struts on your Fusion involves removing the complete strut assembly from the front suspension and installing new units. Struts support vehicle weight, control bouncing, and affect braking, steering, tire wear, and alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always replace struts in pairs on the same axle to keep handling balanced.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid, level ground. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain spring pressure. A coil spring compressor is dangerous if used incorrectly.
• ⚠️ For a beginner, complete loaded strut assemblies are strongly recommended. A loaded strut includes the spring, mount, bearing, and strut already assembled.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on the top of the strut unless the spring is safely compressed with the correct tool.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (up to 250 Nm)
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench (up to 80 Nm)
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• 6mm Allen key
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete loaded strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts - Qty: 4
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mount nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fusion on level, solid ground.
• Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts before loosening them.
• A steering knuckle is the large metal suspension part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• A sway bar link is a small link rod that connects the suspension to the stabilizer bar to reduce body roll.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker before removal. This helps get the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts one turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen first, lift second.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Fusion at a proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the proper reinforced support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use the paint marker to draw alignment marks where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
• Mark around the bolt heads and the strut bracket.
• This does not replace a professional alignment, but it helps the vehicle drive straighter afterward.

Step 5: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use a bungee cord to support the steering knuckle or brake assembly from the suspension area.
• Do not let the brake hose, ABS wire, or axle shaft hang under tension.
• The ABS wire is the small sensor wire going to the wheel hub for anti-lock brake operation.

Step 6: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any brake hose or ABS wire bracket bolts attached to the strut.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to gently release any plastic wire clips from the strut body.
• Move the hose and wiring aside without stretching them.
• Torque brake hose/ABS bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Strut

• Use the 18mm wrench on the sway bar link nut.
• If the ball stud spins, hold the center of the stud with the 6mm Allen key while turning the nut with the 18mm wrench.
• Remove the link from the strut bracket.
• Torque the sway bar link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 8: Loosen the Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use the 21mm wrench on the bolt head and the 24mm socket with the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the nut.
• Loosen the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts.
• Do not remove both bolts until the knuckle is supported.
• These bolts are usually very tight.

Step 9: Remove the Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use the 24mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the nuts fully.
• Use the rubber mallet to tap the bolts out if needed.
• Use the pry bar gently only if the knuckle needs slight movement.
• Keep the steering knuckle supported so the axle and brake hose are not pulled.
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle nuts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood if it is not already open.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mount nuts at the strut tower.
• Hold the strut assembly with one hand while removing the last nut.
• Do not remove or loosen the large center strut shaft nut.
• Torque the upper strut mount nuts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 11: Remove the Strut Assembly

• Use both hands to guide the strut assembly downward and out through the wheel opening.
• Be careful not to scrape the fender, brake hose, or axle boot.
• If it catches, use the pry bar gently to create space at the knuckle area.

Step 12: Prepare the New Loaded Strut

• Compare the new loaded strut assembly to the old one.
• Check that the bracket positions, spring direction, and upper mounting studs match.
• Use the wire brush to clean the steering knuckle mounting surface.
• If you are not using loaded struts, use the coil spring compressor only according to the tool maker’s instructions.
• For beginners, do not transfer springs at home unless trained and properly equipped.

Step 13: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new strut assembly up into the strut tower.
• Use your hand to start the three upper mount nuts.
• Do not fully tighten them yet.
• Make sure the strut is facing the same direction as the removed one.

Step 14: Connect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use your hands to align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle.
• Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts through the bracket and knuckle.
• Install new nuts by hand.
• Use the paint marks as a starting point for alignment.
• Use the 21mm wrench and 24mm socket with the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nuts.
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle nuts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Tighten the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Torque the upper strut mount nuts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

• Insert the sway bar link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install a new nut by hand.
• Use the 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the 6mm Allen key.
• Torque the sway bar link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reconnect Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use your hands to route the brake hose and ABS wire exactly as before.
• Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts.
• Press any plastic clips back into the strut brackets by hand.
• Torque brake hose/ABS bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 18: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Use the same tools and steps to replace the other front strut assembly.
• Do not replace only one front strut unless it is an emergency repair.

Step 19: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each front wheel back onto the hub.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• A star pattern means tightening across the wheel instead of going around in a circle.

Step 20: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground fully.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque the lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right while parked. Listen for binding, clunks, or rubbing.
• Drive slowly around the block and test the brakes gently.
• If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, do not delay alignment.
• Get a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing the struts.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• Listen for new noises over small bumps. A loose sway bar link or bracket is a common cause.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 for front pair, parts + labor + alignment

DIY Cost: $300-$650 for front pair, parts only

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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