🔧 Tacoma - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Tacoma. The strut supports the front suspension and helps control bouncing, braking dive, and tire contact with the road.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Tacoma with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs. Do both left and right sides so the suspension stays balanced.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the center nut on a bare strut/spring assembly unless the coil spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor. The spring is under high force.
• ⚠️ For a beginner, use complete loaded strut assemblies if available. A loaded strut includes the strut, coil spring, mount, and hardware preassembled.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wheel speed sensor wiring from being stretched while the lower control arm and steering knuckle move.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 22mm combination wrench
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar (18-inch)
• Rubber mallet
• Paint marker
• Needle nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assemblies - Left and Right - Qty: 2
• Front strut lower mounting bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 sets
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Tacoma on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔎 Check that the new left and right loaded strut assemblies match the old ones before removing anything.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the lower strut bolt position before removal. This helps preserve alignment enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• 📏 Plan on getting a professional wheel alignment after the repair. Strut removal can change front suspension alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Tip: Loosen, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center crossmember to lift the front of your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper front frame support points.
• Gently lower the truck onto the jack stands and give the truck a light push to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the frame area as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Front Skid Plate if Equipped

• Use a 12mm socket if your Tacoma has a front skid plate with 12mm-head bolts.
• If clips are present, use a trim clip removal tool or flat blade screwdriver to remove them gently.
• Set the skid plate and fasteners aside in order.

Step 5: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm near the ball joint area.
• Raise it just enough to lightly support the suspension. Do not lift the truck off the jack stand.
• The lower control arm is the large suspension arm that holds the bottom of the wheel assembly.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Lower Control Arm

• The stabilizer bar link connects the suspension to the sway bar, which reduces body roll in turns.
• Spray the stabilizer link nut with penetrating oil.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to remove the nut from the lower stabilizer bar link connection.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench flats using the 17mm combination wrench while turning the nut with the 17mm socket.

Step 7: Mark the Lower Strut Mount Position

• Use a paint marker to draw a line across the lower strut mount, bolt, and bracket.
• This mark helps you install the new strut close to the original position.
• Tip: Alignment is still required afterward.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Mount Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm combination wrench to remove the lower strut mounting nut.
• Push or tap the bolt out using a rubber mallet if it is snug.
• If needed, slightly raise or lower the lower control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to remove pressure from the bolt.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
• Do not remove or loosen the large center nut on the strut assembly.
• Hold the strut with one hand as the final nut comes off so it does not drop.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm slightly to create room.
• Use a pry bar (18-inch) carefully if extra clearance is needed.
• Guide the old strut assembly out through the wheel opening.
• Watch the brake hose and ABS wire so they are not pulled tight.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut assembly into place through the wheel opening.
• Align the three top studs with the holes in the strut tower.
• Install the three new upper mounting nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the upper nuts to Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install the Lower Strut Bolt

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise or lower the lower control arm until the lower strut hole lines up.
• Slide the lower strut bolt through the mount by hand.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm combination wrench, and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the lower strut bolt to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Guide the stabilizer bar link stud back into the lower control arm bracket.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm combination wrench, and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 5 through 13 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Keep left and right struts on their correct sides if the assemblies are side-specific.

Step 15: Reinstall the Skid Plate if Removed

• Lift the skid plate into place by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the skid plate bolts snugly if equipped.
• If clips were removed, press them back in by hand or with a trim clip removal tool.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower your Tacoma to the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The truck should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, clunks, or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Check for noises over small bumps.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs).
• ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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