How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specifications for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specifications for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
š§ Accord - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Accord, the front uses complete strut assemblies (shock + spring), and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (pair) / 6-10 hours (all four)
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Never remove the strut center nut unless the spring is compressed; the spring can release with extreme force.
- ā ļø Support the car with jack stands under the proper lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ā ļø Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
- Disconnecting the battery is not required for this job.
- Plan on getting an alignment after front struts.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20ā200 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Ratchet (1/2")
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
- Wrench set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- 19mm socket
- 6mm Allen key
- Extensions (3" and 6")
- Pry bar (12ā18")
- Rubber mallet
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop & dust boot kit - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mounts - Recommended - Qty: 2
- New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut/shock mounting - As needed - Qty: 1 set
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
- Spray mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10ā15 minutes.
- If you are not using āquick strutsā (pre-assembled struts), youāll need a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it canāt expand).
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the car
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1 turn.
- Lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Front strut removal (one side at a time)
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and/or 12mm socket (depending on bracket).
- Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench; hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if it spins.
- Support the lower control arm with a floor jack (light pressure).
- Remove the damper fork lower through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Remove the damper fork pinch bolt at the strut using a 14mm socket.
- Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Work the strut assembly out of the wheel well; use a pry bar gently if needed.
Step 3: If installing āquick strutsā (pre-assembled)
- Skip spring transfer and move to installation.
- Quick struts are safest for first-timers.
Step 4: If reusing your springs (spring transfer)
- Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the perch.
- Remove the strut center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) with a ratchet while holding the shaft from turning.
- Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut, matching orientation marks using a paint marker.
- Install the center nut and tighten with the pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
- Slowly release the spring compressor evenly and re-check that the spring ends sit in the pockets.
Step 5: Front strut installation
- Position the strut in the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
- Slide the damper fork onto the strut and install the pinch bolt using a 14mm socket.
- Install the damper fork lower through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key if needed.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and/or 12mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners to spec using a torque wrench:
- Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 44 NĀ·m (33 ft-lbs)
- Damper fork pinch bolt: Torque to 64 NĀ·m (47 ft-lbs)
- Damper fork lower through-bolt: Torque to 116 NĀ·m (86 ft-lbs)
- Sway bar end link nut (at strut): Torque to 44 NĀ·m (33 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)
- Open the trunk and pull back the side trim to access the upper shock mount nuts; use needle-nose pliers and a trim tool if clips are present.
- Support the rear lower control arm with a floor jack (light pressure).
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Remove the upper shock mount nuts in the trunk using a 14mm socket.
- Remove the shock assembly.
Step 7: Rear shock installation
- Install the new shock, start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Torque fasteners with a torque wrench:
- Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 22 NĀ·m (16 ft-lbs)
- Lower shock bolt: Torque to 59 NĀ·m (44 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall trunk trim.
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off jack stands using a floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 NĀ·m (80 ft-lbs).
ā After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25ā50 miles.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment, especially after replacing front struts.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and get alignment immediately.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, depends on front/rear/all four)
DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depends on quick struts vs. bare struts)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















