How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2019 Ford Escape
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2019 Ford Escape
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement
This repair replaces the front lower control arm on your Escape. The lower control arm connects the front wheel knuckle to the subframe and contains bushings and a ball joint that can wear, clunk, or cause loose steering.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours per side
Assumption: This guide covers the front lower control arms, which are the commonly serviced control arms on your Escape.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands only; never work under a vehicle supported by a jack alone.
- ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud threads; thread damage can prevent safe installation.
- ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm bushing bolts should be done at normal ride height to prevent bushing twist and early failure.
- ⚠️ An alignment is required after replacing a control arm.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 21mm wrench
- Flat pry bar
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Dead blow hammer
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower control arm - Qty: 1 per side
- Front lower control arms - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set per side
- Stabilizer bar link nut - Qty: 1 per side if removed
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket before lifting.
- 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the lower ball joint pinch bolt, control arm mounting bolts, and stabilizer link nut.
- 📝 Use a paint marker to mark the control arm bolt positions. This helps keep alignment close enough for a safe drive to the alignment shop.
- 📌 A ball joint separator is a wedge or press-style tool that separates the ball joint from the steering knuckle without damaging the joint pocket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Support the Front
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground.
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
- Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Use the floor jack to lightly support the front subframe area as an added safety backup.
- Shake the vehicle gently before working underneath.
Step 2: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety cushion.
Step 3: Inspect the Work Area
- Use safety glasses and a wire brush to clean dirt and rust from the control arm mounting bolts.
- Use penetrating oil again on the front control arm bolt, rear control arm bolt, and lower ball joint pinch bolt.
- Locate the lower control arm. It is the large metal arm running from the subframe to the bottom of the steering knuckle.
Step 4: Disconnect Any Attached Brackets
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any small brake hose or ABS wire retaining bracket attached near the control arm area.
- Move the wiring or hose gently aside by hand.
- Do not stretch the ABS wire or brake hose.
Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link if It Blocks Access
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the lower stabilizer bar link nut if the link prevents control arm movement.
- Push the stabilizer link out of the control arm or move it aside.
- The stabilizer bar link connects the suspension to the sway bar, which helps reduce body roll when turning.
Step 6: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut at the steering knuckle.
- If the bolt is stuck, use penetrating oil and a dead blow hammer to tap it out gently.
- Discard the old pinch bolt and nut if your replacement hardware includes new ones.
Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
- Use a pry bar carefully between the control arm and knuckle only if needed.
- Do not pry against the rubber CV axle boot.
- Once separated, support the steering knuckle by hand so it does not pull on the brake hose or axle.
- Move slowly; suspension parts can release suddenly.
Step 8: Remove the Control Arm Mounting Bolts
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front and rear control arm mounting points.
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to loosen and remove the rear control arm mounting bolt and nut.
- Use an 18mm socket or 21mm socket as equipped to loosen and remove the front control arm mounting bolt.
- Support the control arm with one hand while removing the last bolt.
Step 9: Remove the Old Control Arm
- Use a flat pry bar to gently work the control arm out of the subframe pockets.
- Lower the control arm out of the vehicle.
- Compare the old and new control arm side by side before installing.
- Make sure the ball joint points the same direction and the bushings match.
Step 10: Install the New Control Arm
- Slide the new control arm into the subframe pockets by hand.
- Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 18mm socket or 21mm socket to snug the bolts, but do not fully torque them yet.
- The bushings are rubber mounts that allow the arm to move quietly; tightening them in the air can preload and damage them.
Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint
- Guide the lower ball joint stud into the bottom of the steering knuckle by hand.
- Use a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm to raise it slightly if needed.
- Install the new lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the pinch bolt.
- Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to reinstall the lower stabilizer bar link nut if removed.
- Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Reinstall Brackets and Wiring
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire brackets removed earlier.
- Make sure the ABS wire is clipped in place and cannot rub the tire or axle.
Step 14: Load the Suspension Before Final Tightening
- Use the floor jack under the outer end of the control arm to raise the suspension until the control arm sits near normal ride height.
- Normal ride height means the suspension is positioned like the vehicle is sitting on its wheels.
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to torque the control arm bolts.
- Front control arm mounting bolt: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
- Rear control arm mounting bolt: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
Step 15: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 19mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Use the floor jack to lift your Escape slightly and remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground.
- Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side if Replacing in Pairs
- Use the same tools and steps on the opposite side.
- Replacing both front lower control arms together helps keep steering and braking feel even.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, popping, or binding.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check for clunks, steering pull, or brake hose/ABS wire rubbing.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
- ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. Control arm replacement changes suspension geometry.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or stability control warning lights appear, stop driving and have alignment and sensor readings checked.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 for both front lower control arms, parts + labor
DIY Cost: $220-$450 for both front lower control arms and hardware
You Save: $430-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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