🔧 Altima - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front lower control arm assemblies on your Altima. The lower control arm holds the wheel in position and contains bushings and a ball joint; worn parts can cause clunks, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Altima only on jack stands; never work under a car held up by a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Control arm bolts are suspension-critical. Tighten all fasteners to specification and get a wheel alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the aluminum steering knuckle or CV axle. Damage can be expensive.
• ⚠️ If replacing both sides, do one side at a time so you can compare the other side if needed.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of the control arm inner bushing bolts should be done at normal ride height to prevent bushing twist and early failure.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly pair - Replace in pairs when wear is similar - Qty: 1
• Lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Control arm inner mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets per side
• Stabilizer bar link nut - Qty: 1 per side if removed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Altima on flat, solid ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm inner bolts, ball joint pinch bolt, and sway bar link nut before starting.
• A ball joint separator is a tool that safely separates the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without beating on the suspension.
• Take photos before removing anything. They help a lot during reassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about one turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break them loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands and lightly shake the car to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the rocker area as a backup safety cushion.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the old control arm mounting points before loosening the bolts.
• This will not replace an alignment, but it helps keep the car close enough to drive safely to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link if It Blocks Removal

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the control arm if it attaches to or blocks the arm.
• If the link stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench and remove the nut with the 17mm socket.
• Move the link aside gently by hand.

Step 6: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Locate the lower ball joint where the control arm connects to the steering knuckle.
• Use a 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• A pinch bolt clamps the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Discard the old pinch bolt and nut if replacement hardware is included.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Use a rubber mallet only for light tapping if needed.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to lower the control arm enough for the ball joint stud to release.
• Do not pull hard on the CV axle, brake hose, or wheel speed sensor wire.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Inner Control Arm Bolt

• Support the control arm by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the rear inner control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is tight from corrosion, use penetrating oil and a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.

Step 9: Remove the Front Inner Control Arm Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the front inner control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch to gently guide the arm out of the subframe pocket.
• Remove the old control arm from the vehicle.

Step 10: Compare the Old and New Control Arms

• Place the old and new control arms side by side on the ground.
• Confirm the bushing locations, ball joint angle, and mounting points match.
• Use shop rags to clean the subframe mounting pockets before installation.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm into the Subframe

• Slide the new control arm into the front and rear subframe mounting pockets.
• Use your hands to install the front and rear inner bolts loosely.
• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, 21mm socket, and 21mm wrench only to snug the bolts for now.
• Do not fully tighten the inner bushing bolts yet.

Step 12: Install the Ball Joint into the Steering Knuckle

• Use a pry bar 18-inch to carefully move the control arm down while guiding the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Make sure the ball joint stud fully seats into the knuckle clamp.
• Install the new pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the pinch bolt. Torque to 62 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Position the stabilizer bar link back into the control arm or bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to tighten the stabilizer link nut. Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the outer end of the control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise the control arm slowly until the suspension sits close to normal ride height.
• This prevents the rubber bushings from being twisted when the car is lowered.

Step 15: Final-Tighten the Inner Control Arm Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to tighten the front inner mounting bolt. Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to tighten the rear inner mounting bolt. Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Lower and remove the floor jack from under the control arm.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back onto the hub.
• Use a 21mm socket to install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with the 21mm socket.

Step 17: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the car slightly and remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, popping, or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks and make sure the steering wheel returns normally.
• ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately. Control arm replacement changes suspension geometry.
• ✅ Recheck visible fasteners after the first short drive.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the car pulls, avoid highway driving until the alignment is done.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 for one side, $1,000-$1,700 for both sides including alignment

DIY Cost: $180-$450 for one side, $320-$750 for both sides plus alignment

You Save: $350-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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