🔧 Control Arms - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

On your Explorer, the front lower control arm holds the wheel in the correct position and supports the suspension. If the bushings are cracked or the ball joint is loose, replacing the control arm restores steering feel, tire wear, and front-end stability.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands before removing any suspension parts.
• Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels so the Explorer cannot roll.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
• The spring is under load in the front suspension. Keep hands clear while separating parts.
• If your Explorer has electronic stability or steering angle calibration issues after repair, a scan tool reset may be needed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar
• Ratchet
• Socket set metric: 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Combination wrench set metric: 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Rubber mallet
• Trim tool
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm-to-subframe bolts - Qty: 4
• Front lower ball joint nut - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer link nut hardware - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Raise the front and support it securely on jack stands.
• If you are replacing both sides, do one side at a time so the other side can help you see how parts fit.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheel

• Use a breaker bar and the correct lug socket to loosen and remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 2: Free the sway bar link if it blocks access

• Use the correct metric wrench and socket to remove the stabilizer link nut if it interferes with control arm removal.
• Torque to Ford factory specification during reassembly.

Step 3: Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle

• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to carefully break the taper loose from the knuckle.
• Do not hit the ball joint stud directly.

Step 4: Remove the control arm rear and front bolts

• Use a socket set and breaker bar to remove the control arm mounting bolts at the subframe.
• If a bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes before trying again.
• Torque to Ford factory specification during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the control arm

• Lower and wiggle the control arm out of the subframe and knuckle area.
• Use a rubber mallet if the bushings are stuck in place.

Step 6: Install the new control arm

• Position the new control arm in the subframe by hand first.
• Install the mounting bolts finger-tight only at first.
• Attach the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle and install the new nut.
• Torque to Ford factory specification for the ball joint nut.

Step 7: Reinstall the sway bar link if removed

• Reinstall the stabilizer link using the correct metric wrench and socket.
• Torque to Ford factory specification.

Step 8: Final-torque the control arm bolts at ride height

• Lower the Explorer enough so the suspension sits at normal ride height, or support the lower control arm with a jack.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten the control arm bolts with the suspension loaded.
• Torque to Ford factory specification.
• This helps the bushings last longer.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts by hand first.
• Lower the vehicle and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to Ford factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the Explorer and listen for clunks or rubbing from the front suspension.
• Check that the steering wheel is centered and the vehicle tracks straight.
• Get a professional wheel alignment after replacing control arms.
• If the steering feels off or the traction light comes on, have the suspension angles checked.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.