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2018 Ford Edge
2015 - 2024 Ford Edge

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Ford Edge Lower Control Arm Replacement

Ford Edge Lower Control Arm Replacement

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2015-2024 Ford Edge

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2015-2024 Ford Edge

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

Orion
Orion

🔧 Edge - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front lower control arms on your Edge. The control arm links the wheel hub area to the vehicle frame and uses rubber bushings plus a ball joint to keep the wheel aligned and stable.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This guide covers the front lower control arms, replaced as a left/right pair.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Edge with jack stands only; never work under a vehicle held by a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; suspension parts can release suddenly when bolts are removed.
  • ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the aluminum knuckle; use a ball joint separator.
  • ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm bushing bolts must be done at normal ride height to prevent bushing damage.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 Nm minimum)
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 21mm wrench
  • 18mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • 6mm Allen key socket
  • Ball joint separator (specialty)
  • Pry bar set
  • Rubber mallet
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush
  • Shop light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front lower control arm assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
  • Front lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut kit - Qty: 2
  • Front lower control arm mounting bolt kit - Qty: 1
  • Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Edge on flat, solid ground.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the control arm mounting bolts and ball joint pinch bolts.
  • A control arm bushing is the rubber-mounted joint where the arm bolts to the frame.
  • A ball joint is a pivot joint that connects the control arm to the steering knuckle.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Break them loose on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Edge at the front subframe lift area.
  • Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
  • Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use a 21mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as a backup safety measure.

Step 4: Inspect and Mark the Control Arm Position

  • Use a shop light to inspect the control arm mounting points.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the control arm brackets and bolt locations.
  • These marks help you get close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Disconnect Any Brackets Attached to the Control Arm

  • Use a 10mm socket or 15mm socket as equipped to remove any small brake hose or ABS wire retainers attached near the control arm.
  • Move the wiring and hose gently aside by hand.
  • Do not stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Remove the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Control Arm if Needed

  • If the stabilizer link blocks access, use an 18mm wrench and 6mm Allen key socket to hold the stud while removing the nut.
  • A stabilizer link connects the suspension to the anti-roll bar and may spin while loosening.
  • Move the link out of the way once the nut is removed.

Step 7: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

  • Use a wire brush to clean the ball joint pinch bolt area.
  • Spray the pinch bolt with penetrating oil.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut from the steering knuckle.
  • Discard the old pinch bolt and nut if replacement hardware is included.

Step 8: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

  • Use a ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
  • A ball joint separator presses the joint apart without damaging the knuckle.
  • Use a rubber mallet only for light tapping if needed.
  • Do not use a steel hammer directly on the knuckle.

Step 9: Remove the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

  • Support the control arm by hand or with the floor jack set very lightly under it.
  • Use an 18mm socket, 21mm socket, 18mm wrench, or 21mm wrench as fitted to remove the front and rear control arm mounting bolts.
  • Use a breaker bar if the bolts are tight.
  • Keep track of bolt direction and spacer locations.

Step 10: Remove the Old Control Arm

  • Use a pry bar to gently work the control arm out of the subframe pockets.
  • Lower and remove the control arm from the vehicle.
  • Compare the old and new control arms side by side before installation.
  • Match left and right carefully.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm

  • Slide the new control arm into the subframe pockets by hand.
  • Use a pry bar only as needed to align the bushings.
  • Install the mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Ball Joint to the Steering Knuckle

  • Guide the ball joint stud fully into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the new ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the pinch bolt.
  • Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Reinstall the Stabilizer Link and Brackets

  • Use an 18mm wrench and 6mm Allen key socket to reinstall the stabilizer link if removed.
  • Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)
  • Use a 10mm socket or 15mm socket to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire brackets.
  • Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted or stretched.

Step 14: Set the Suspension to Ride Height

  • Use the floor jack under the outer end of the control arm to raise the suspension until it sits near normal ride height.
  • Normal ride height means the suspension is loaded like the vehicle is sitting on its wheels.
  • This prevents the new rubber bushings from being twisted at rest.

Step 15: Tighten the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

  • With the suspension at ride height, use an 18mm socket, 21mm socket, and torque wrench to tighten the control arm mounting bolts.
  • Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
  • If using new hardware with different instructions, follow the hardware supplier’s torque sheet.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite side using the same tools.
  • Replacing both front lower control arms together keeps handling even side to side.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Place the wheels back on the hubs by hand.
  • Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower your Edge to the ground.
  • Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked to check for rubbing, binding, or stretched wires.
  • ✅ Road test slowly at first and listen for clunks or knocking.
  • ✅ Recheck all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
  • ✅ Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately.
  • ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is completed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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