🔧 Trax - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This procedure replaces both front lower control arms, including their bushings and ball joints. Worn control arms can cause clunking, wandering, uneven tire wear, or looseness while braking.

Assumption: This covers complete front lower control arm assemblies on a stock Trax.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Trax with jack stands on solid, level ground. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ The suspension can move suddenly after the ball joint is released. Keep your hands clear of pinch points.
• ⚠️ Do not pull the steering knuckle outward excessively. This can separate the inner CV joint or damage the brake hose.
• ⚠️ Replace the control-arm mounting bolts and ball-joint pinch bolt. These torque-plus-angle fasteners are tightened by torque and then an additional measured turn.
• ⚠️ Final-tighten the control-arm bushing bolts at normal ride height. Tightening them while the suspension hangs can tear the new bushings.
• ⚠️ A professional four-wheel alignment is required after replacement.
• 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm deep socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 18mm combination wrench
• 21mm combination wrench
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive extensions
• Torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
• Torque-angle gauge (specialty)
• Ball-joint separator (specialty)
• Large pry bar
• 16-ounce ball-peen hammer
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil aerosol
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly with bushings and ball joint - Left: 1, Right: 1 - Replace in pairs
• Front control-arm mounting bolt and nut set - Qty: 2 sets
• Rear control-arm mounting bolt set - Qty: 2 sets
• Ball-joint pinch bolt and nut set - Qty: 2 sets

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Trax on level pavement. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch off the ignition.
• Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear wheels.
• Use penetrating oil aerosol on the control-arm fasteners and ball-joint pinch bolts. Allow it to soak before disassembly.
• Use a paint marker to mark the original position of each control-arm bushing bracket against the subframe.
• Perform one side at a time. The assembled side provides a useful visual reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

• Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-half turn.
• Do not remove the wheel nuts while your Trax is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use the hydraulic floor jack at the approved front lifting point to raise your Trax.
• Position the jack stands beneath the approved side support points, then lower your Trax onto them.
• Gently push the body to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat away from the work area.

Step 4: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Position the hydraulic floor jack lightly beneath the outer end of the control arm.
• Raise the jack only enough to support the suspension. Do not lift your Trax off the jack stand.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal carrier holding the wheel hub and brake assembly.

Step 5: Remove the Ball-Joint Pinch Bolt

• Use the wire brush to clean exposed threads on the ball-joint pinch bolt.
• Use the appropriate 15mm or 18mm socket with the matching 18mm combination wrench to remove the pinch-bolt nut and bolt.
• Discard the removed bolt and nut. Do not reuse them.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint

• Use the ball-joint separator to release the ball-joint stud from the bottom of the steering knuckle.
• If necessary, use the 16-ounce ball-peen hammer to tap the knuckle beside the joint. Never strike the threaded stud.
• Use the large pry bar to press the control arm downward while guiding the stud out of the knuckle.
• Lower the hydraulic floor jack slowly while watching the brake hose and CV axle.
• Do not let the knuckle hang by its hose.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Control-Arm Fastener

• Use the 18mm or 21mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and matching combination wrench to loosen the rear bushing fastener.
• Remove the rear bolt while supporting the control arm with one hand.
• Discard any torque-plus-angle bolt removed from this mounting point.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control-Arm Fastener

• Use the 18mm or 21mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and matching combination wrench to remove the front bushing bolt and nut.
• Pull the complete control arm away from the subframe.
• If corrosion holds it in place, use the large pry bar carefully between the bushing sleeve and mounting bracket.

Step 9: Compare the Replacement Arm

• Place the old and new control arms beside each other.
• Confirm the ball-joint direction, bushing orientation, arm shape, and left- or right-side position match.
• Use the wire brush to clean dirt and corrosion from the subframe mounting pockets.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm

• Guide the new control arm into the subframe using the paint-marker reference lines.
• Install the new front and rear mounting bolts by hand. Use the 18mm or 21mm socket only after each bolt has threaded several turns freely.
• Leave both bushing fasteners loose enough for the arm to pivot. Do not final-tighten them yet.

Step 11: Connect the Ball Joint

• Use the large pry bar and hydraulic floor jack to guide the ball-joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Align the stud groove with the pinch-bolt opening.
• Install a new pinch bolt and nut by hand. The bolt must pass cleanly through the machined groove in the ball-joint stud.
• Use the torque wrench with the correct 15mm or 18mm socket and matching wrench to tighten the new pinch fastener to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Set the Suspension at Ride Height

• Use the hydraulic floor jack beneath the outer control-arm area to raise the suspension.
• Stop when the control arm is approximately in its normal level driving position.
• Verify your Trax remains firmly supported by the jack stand.

Step 13: Tighten the Control-Arm Fasteners

• Use the torque wrench with the correct 18mm or 21mm socket and matching combination wrench.
• Tighten each new control-arm-to-subframe fastener to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
• Attach the torque-angle gauge and turn each fastener an additional 75 degrees.
• Use the paint marker to mark each completed fastener.
• Tightening at ride height protects the bushings.

Step 14: Repeat on the Opposite Side

• Lower the hydraulic floor jack without disturbing the jack stands.
• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the other front control arm using the same listed tools.

Step 15: Install the Front Wheels

• Install each wheel and thread all wheel nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack to raise your Trax, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and 19mm deep socket to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Turn the steering wheel fully left and right. Confirm there is no binding and that both brake hoses remain correctly routed.
• Press the brake pedal several times before moving your Trax.
• Drive slowly in a safe area and listen for clunks. Confirm the steering returns normally after a turn.
• Arrange a professional four-wheel alignment immediately. Replacing control arms can change toe and camber.
• After approximately 80-160 km, use the torque wrench and 19mm deep socket to recheck the wheel nuts at 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• If the steering wheel is off-center, your Trax pulls, or warning lights appear, stop driving and have the suspension inspected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹35,000-₹70,000 (parts, labor, and alignment)

DIY Cost: ₹16,000-₹35,000 (parts and alignment)

You Save: ₹19,000-₹35,000 by doing it yourself!

Sonīpat-area labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours, plus alignment time.

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