🔧 Control Arms - Replacement

This guide covers replacing the front lower control arms on your Outback. The front lower control arm holds the wheel in the correct position and contains bushings and a ball joint that can wear out, causing clunks, wandering steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ The coil spring and strut stay installed for this job, but suspension parts may shift when bolts are removed.
• ⚠️ Replace control arms in pairs if one side is worn; this keeps handling and braking even.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen or remove subframe bolts for this repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing control arms.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• Ball joint separator fork specialty
• Ball joint press specialty
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Hammer 2-lb
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
• Front stabilizer bar end link nuts - Qty: 2
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔩 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 💧 Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint pinch bolts, and sway bar end link nuts. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• 📌 A ball joint separator fork is a wedge-shaped tool that separates a tapered joint from the suspension knuckle.
• 📌 A ball joint press is a C-clamp style tool used to press a ball joint in or out if the new arm does not come preassembled.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts one turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Never work under only a jack.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Mark the Original Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the rear control arm bushing bracket and front mounting point.
• This helps you install the new arm close to the original position before the alignment.
• Paint marks do not replace alignment.

Step 4: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar End Link

• The stabilizer bar, also called a sway bar, helps reduce body roll in turns.
• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the stabilizer bar end link nut from the control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench while turning the nut with the 14mm wrench.
• Move the end link away from the control arm.

Step 5: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• The ball joint connects the control arm to the steering knuckle, which is the upright part holding the wheel hub.
• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut from the bottom of the steering knuckle.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust around the pinch area.
• Apply penetrating oil around the ball joint socket.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator fork specialty between the control arm and steering knuckle.
• Tap the tool with a hammer 2-lb until the ball joint separates from the knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully if the control arm needs gentle downward pressure.
• Do not pull hard on the axle shaft or brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the front control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar for controlled force.
• Keep your hand clear of the arm as the bolt comes out.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the rear bushing bracket bolts.
• Support the control arm with one hand while removing the last bolt.
• Remove the control arm from the vehicle.

Step 9: Compare the New and Old Control Arms

• Place the old and new control arms side by side.
• Confirm the bushing locations, ball joint location, and stabilizer link mounting point match.
• If the new control arm does not include a ball joint, use a ball joint press specialty to transfer or install the ball joint according to the tool instructions.
• For a beginner, a complete control arm assembly with bushings and ball joint already installed is strongly recommended.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm Loosely

• Use your hands to position the new control arm into the subframe mounts.
• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to install the front mounting bolt loosely.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the rear bushing bracket bolts loosely.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
• Bushings must be tightened at ride height.

Step 11: Install the Ball Joint into the Steering Knuckle

• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to guide the control arm downward if needed.
• Slide the ball joint stud fully into the steering knuckle.
• Install a new ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to tighten the pinch bolt.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar End Link

• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to install the stabilizer bar end link nut to the control arm.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Load the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the outer end of the control arm.
• Raise the control arm until it sits near normal ride height.
• Normal ride height means the suspension is compressed like the vehicle is sitting on the ground.
• This prevents the rubber bushings from being twisted when the vehicle is lowered.

Step 14: Final-Tighten the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs to tighten the front control arm bolt.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs to tighten the rear bushing bracket bolts.
• Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
• Remove the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum from under the control arm.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps to replace the opposite front lower control arm.
• Replace both sides as a pair for even handling and braking.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

• Place each wheel back on the hub by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly while parked and listen for binding, popping, or clunks.
• ✅ Take a short, slow test drive first. Avoid highway speeds until the steering feels stable.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• ✅ Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately. Control arm replacement changes wheel alignment.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, do not delay the alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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