🔧 Fusion - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front lower control arms on your Fusion. The control arm holds the wheel hub in position and lets the suspension move up and down smoothly; worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, wandering steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your Fusion is a plug-in hybrid, but this repair is on the suspension only. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid components.
• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands. A floor jack lifts the car; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Do not work under the car with only a jack supporting it.
• ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm pivot bolts should be done at normal ride height to prevent bushing damage.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing control arms.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Driver side - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly - Passenger side - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm ball joint nuts - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set

Note: Replace control arms in pairs when possible so both sides have equal bushing stiffness and handling feel.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fusion on a flat, solid surface.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to stop the car from rolling.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts and ball joint nuts. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of any visible alignment-related fasteners before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front subframe jacking point to raise the front of your Fusion.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Clean and Inspect the Control Arm Fasteners

• Use a wire brush to clean dirt and rust from the ball joint nut and control arm mounting bolts.
• Apply penetrating oil to the front control arm bolt, rear control arm bolt, and ball joint nut.
• The ball joint is the pivoting stud that connects the control arm to the steering knuckle.

Step 5: Remove Any Lower Shield or Access Panel if Equipped

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any lower splash shield fasteners blocking access to the rear control arm mount.
• Set the fasteners aside in order so they go back in the same places.

Step 6: Remove the Ball Joint Nut

• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the lower ball joint nut.
• If the stud spins, use an 18mm wrench to hold the nut while applying downward pressure on the control arm with a pry bar 18-inch.
• Remove the nut fully and discard it if your replacement hardware includes a new nut.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the lower control arm ball joint and steering knuckle.
• Tighten the separator tool with the correct socket from your set until the joint pops free.
• Use a dead blow hammer only on the tool if light tapping is needed.
• Do not strike the threaded ball joint stud directly.
• Keep fingers away from pinch points.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the bolt head.
• Use a 21mm wrench on the nut if the nut turns.
• Remove the front mounting bolt and nut from the control arm.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear control arm mounting bolt.
• Use an 18mm wrench on the nut if needed.
• Remove the rear mounting bolt and nut.

Step 10: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently work the old control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Lower the ball joint end first, then slide the bushing ends out.
• Compare the old and new control arms side by side before installing.
• Make sure the ball joint angle and bushing positions match.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm

• Slide the new control arm into the subframe pockets by hand.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if light alignment help is needed.
• Install the rear mounting bolt and nut by hand first.
• Install the front mounting bolt and nut by hand next.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new ball joint nut.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the ball joint nut.
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Snug the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to snug the front mounting bolt.
• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to snug the rear mounting bolt.
• Do not final-torque these bolts while the suspension is hanging down.
• Bushings must be tightened at ride height.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps to replace the opposite front lower control arm.
• Work slowly and keep left-side and right-side parts separate.

Step 15: Load the Suspension to Ride Height

• Place the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum under the outer part of the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise the control arm slightly until the suspension sits close to normal ride height.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This step simulates the vehicle sitting on the ground.

Step 16: Final-Torque the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use the 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front mounting bolt.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
• Use the 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear mounting bolt.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)

Step 17: Reinstall Any Lower Shield or Access Panel

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any lower shield fasteners removed earlier.
• Tighten them snugly by hand. Do not overtighten plastic shield hardware.

Step 18: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Put both front wheels back on the hubs.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 19: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce the front of the vehicle gently and listen for clunks.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for binding or popping.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Check that the steering feels stable and the vehicle tracks straight.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.
• ✅ Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately. New control arms can change camber and toe angles.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds until alignment is completed if the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.