🔧 Escape - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Replace the complete front lower control-arm assemblies, including their bushings and ball joints. This is an intermediate suspension repair because the fasteners are tight and the arms must be torqued at normal ride height.

Assumption: These instructions cover both front lower control arms, not the rear suspension links.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours for both sides

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands on solid, level ground. Never work beneath a vehicle held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting to protect the electric power-steering system.
• ⚠️ Do not place a separator fork between the ball-joint boot and steering knuckle. It can tear the new boot.
• ⚠️ Use new locking nuts and any one-time-use bolts supplied or specified with the replacement arms.
• ⚠️ Tighten the control-arm bushing fasteners at normal ride height. Tightening them with the suspension hanging twists the rubber bushings and shortens their life.
• ⚠️ Obtain a four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 15mm six-point socket
• 18mm six-point socket
• 21mm six-point socket
• 19mm or 21mm wheel-nut socket
• 15mm combination wrench
• 18mm combination wrench
• 21mm combination wrench
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• 6-inch socket extension
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Large pry bar
• Ball-joint separator screw tool (specialty)
• 16-ounce hammer
• 3/8-inch punch
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front left lower control arm and ball-joint assembly - Qty: 1
• Front right lower control arm and ball-joint assembly - Qty: 1
• Control-arm mounting hardware - Qty: 1 set per side
• Ball-joint locking hardware - Qty: 1 set per side
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

Complete assemblies are the smart buy for a first-time repair. Pressing individual bushings turns a straightforward job into a wrestling match with a hydraulic press.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park on level concrete, center the steering wheel, select Park, and apply the parking brake.
• 📋 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear tires.
• 📋 Open the hood and let the vehicle sit with the ignition off and key removed.
• 📋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Isolate it so it cannot touch the terminal.
• 📋 Spray penetrating oil on the control-arm mounting bolts and ball-joint connection.
• 📋 Compare each new arm with the corresponding old arm before installation. Left and right arms are not interchangeable.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel nuts

• Use the correct wheel-nut socket and a 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while the tires are supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and support the front

• Use the floor jack at the approved front lifting point and raise your Escape.
• Position both jack stands under the approved reinforced support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and verify that it is stable before continuing.

Step 3: Remove the wheels

• Use the wheel-nut socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the front wheel nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and slide one beneath each side as an additional safety measure.

Step 4: Mark and inspect the mounting points

• Use the paint marker to mark the positions of the control-arm fasteners and brackets.
• Inspect the steering knuckle, subframe mounting points, brake hose, ABS-sensor wire, and axle boot for damage.
• Use the wire brush to clean exposed threads.

Step 5: Disconnect the ball joint

• Use the appropriate 15mm or 18mm socket and matching wrench to remove the ball-joint locking fastener.
• Discard a removed locking nut or one-time-use fastener rather than reusing it.
• Use the punch and hammer only on the removable bolt, never on threaded ends that will be reused.
• Use the ball-joint separator screw tool to release the joint from the steering knuckle.
• Support the knuckle so its weight does not pull on the brake hose, ABS wire, or CV axle.
• Keep pressure away from the rubber boot.

Step 6: Remove the control-arm mounting fasteners

• Support the arm lightly with the floor jack.
• Use the 18mm or 21mm socket, breaker bar, and matching wrench to loosen the front bushing fastener.
• Use the appropriate socket and wrench to remove the rear bushing fastener or bracket bolts.
• Record each fastener's location and direction as it comes out.
• Do not loosen or remove the main subframe mounting bolts.

Step 7: Remove the old control arm

• Lower the floor jack slightly while controlling the arm by hand.
• Use the large pry bar against the metal arm or reinforced mounting area to work the bushings free.
• Remove the arm without pulling the steering knuckle outward.
• Compare the old and new arms side by side, including bolt-hole spacing, bushing orientation, ball-joint position, and ABS-wire clearance.

Step 8: Install the new control arm loosely

• Insert the new arm into the subframe mounting points.
• Install the bushing fasteners by hand. Do not fully tighten them yet.
• Use the floor jack to position the arm while guiding the ball joint into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new ball-joint hardware by hand and verify that the joint is fully seated.

Step 9: Tighten the ball-joint connection

• Use the correct socket, matching wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the ball-joint fastener.
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).
• Confirm that the boot is not pinched, torn, or twisted. Ford-platform service information emphasizes using correct new locking hardware for this safety-critical connection. go-parts.com

Step 10: Load the suspension to normal ride height

• Position the floor jack beneath the sturdy outer portion of the new control arm.
• Raise the arm until the hub sits approximately at its normal ride-height relationship to the fender.
• Keep the vehicle's weight securely supported by the jack stand. The floor jack loads the suspension but does not replace the stand.
• This prevents the rubber bushings from being locked in a twisted position. go-parts.com

Step 11: Torque the control-arm bushing fasteners

• Use the 18mm or 21mm socket, matching wrench, and torque wrench while the suspension remains loaded.
• Torque the front bushing bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Torque the rear bushing fastener to 149 Nm (110 ft-lbs).
• Use the hardware instructions supplied with the replacement arm if they specify a different torque or an additional angle-tightening step.
• Never substitute an impact wrench for the final torque-wrench tightening. Suspension bolts aren't the place for “that feels tight enough.” go-parts.com

Step 12: Repeat on the opposite side

• Use the same tools and procedure to replace the other front lower control arm.
• Replace one side completely before disassembling the other side so the assembled side remains a reference.

Step 13: Reinstall the wheels

• Clean the wheel-to-hub contact surfaces with the wire brush.
• Install each wheel and start every nut by hand.
• Use the wheel-nut socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and wheel-nut socket to tighten in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs). go-parts.com

Step 14: Reconnect the battery

• Use the 10mm socket to reconnect and secure the negative battery terminal.
• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly from center toward each side, without forcing it against the stops.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Press down firmly over each front corner and listen for clunks or metallic movement.
• ✅ Check that both ball-joint boots remain seated and undamaged.
• ✅ Verify that the brake hoses, ABS wires, and CV boots are clear of the new arms.
• ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and check steering response, braking stability, and unusual noises.
• ✅ Arrange a four-wheel alignment immediately. Replacing an arm can change toe and other suspension angles. go-parts.com
• ✅ Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 50 miles.
• ✅ Stop driving if the steering feels loose, the vehicle pulls sharply, or you hear repeated knocking.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,600 for both sides, including parts, labor, and alignment

DIY Cost: $285-$550 for both arms, hardware, supplies, and alignment

You Save: Approximately $465-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but commonly run $100-$180/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 labor hours for both sides.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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