🔧 Highlander - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This job replaces the front lower control arm, which holds the front wheel in position and allows the suspension to move smoothly. On your Highlander, the front lower control arm includes the ball joint and bushings, so replacement is usually done as a complete assembly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint and moving the knuckle.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen or tighten suspension bushing bolts with the suspension hanging. Final tightening must be done at normal ride height.
• ⚠️ The steering knuckle can pull on the brake hose and wheel speed sensor wire. Support it so nothing stretches.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing control arms.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive, 20-200 ft-lb range
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Socket set 14mm-24mm
• Wrench set 14mm-24mm
• 19mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm socket
• 22mm wrench
• 24mm socket
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Dead blow hammer
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord
• Trim clip removal tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly pair - Qty: 1 pair if replacing both sides
• Lower ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: as needed if corroded or damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle. Do not remove them yet.
• 🔎 Spray penetrating oil on the control arm mounting bolts and lower ball joint nut if rust is present.
• 📌 A ball joint separator is a tool that pushes the tapered ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle without damaging the knuckle.
• 📌 Normal ride height means the suspension is loaded like the vehicle is sitting on the ground.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do this while the tire is still touching the ground so the wheel does not spin.
• Break nuts loose before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Control Arm Area

• Use the safety glasses and mechanic gloves before working near the suspension.
• Use the paint marker to mark the position of the old control arm bolts and washers if visible.
• This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive slowly to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Disconnect Any Attached Clips or Shields

• Use the trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic splash shield clips blocking access to the control arm bolts.
• Use a 10mm socket from the socket set 14mm-24mm only if small shield bolts are present.
• Move wiring or hose brackets only if they block control arm removal.

Step 6: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use a bungee cord to support the steering knuckle from the strut spring area.
• This prevents the knuckle from pulling on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wire.
• Do not hang the knuckle by the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
• If the cotter pin breaks, remove all loose pieces before removing the nut.
• The cotter pin is a small locking pin that keeps the nut from backing off.

Step 8: Loosen the Lower Ball Joint Nut

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lower ball joint nut.
• Leave the nut threaded on a few turns while separating the joint.
• This keeps the control arm from dropping suddenly.

Step 9: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

• Install the ball joint separator between the lower control arm ball joint and steering knuckle.
• Tighten the separator with the correct socket from the socket set 14mm-24mm until the taper pops loose.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle lightly with a dead blow hammer.
• Remove the loosened ball joint nut fully with the 19mm socket.
• Keep your fingers away from pinch points.

Step 10: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive on the bolt head.
• Use a 22mm wrench to hold the nut if it spins.
• Remove the rear mounting bolt and nut from the control arm bushing.

Step 11: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 24mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front control arm mounting bolt.
• Use the matching wrench from the wrench set 14mm-24mm if the nut needs to be held.
• Slide the bolt out while supporting the control arm by hand.

Step 12: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Use the pry bar 18-inch to gently work the old control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Do not pry against brake lines, wiring, or aluminum sealing surfaces.
• Compare the old and new control arms to confirm the bushing and ball joint locations match.

Step 13: Install the New Control Arm

• Slide the new front lower control arm assembly into the subframe pockets by hand.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first.
• Do not fully tighten the mounting bolts yet.

Step 14: Connect the Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the ball joint nut by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lower ball joint nut to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Install a new lower ball joint cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it does. Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.

Step 15: Preload the Suspension

• Use the floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm.
• Raise the control arm slowly until the suspension is near normal ride height.
• This protects the new rubber bushings from being twisted at rest.

Step 16: Final-Tighten the Control Arm Bolts

• Use the 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the rear control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 183 Nm (135 ft-lbs).
• Use the 24mm socket, matching wrench from the wrench set 14mm-24mm, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the front control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 183 Nm (135 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the suspension is still loaded when these bolts are tightened.

Step 17: Reinstall Shields and Clips

• Use the trim clip removal tool to reinstall any splash shield clips removed earlier.
• Use the correct socket from the socket set 14mm-24mm to reinstall any small shield bolts until snug.

Step 18: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 19: Lower and Torque the Wheel

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Highlander until the tire touches the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Repeat on the Other Side if Needed

• If replacing both sides, repeat the same steps on the opposite front control arm.
• Control arms should be replaced in pairs if both sides show wear or if the vehicle has high mileage.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for knocking, rubbing, or pulling.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive using the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• ✅ Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is completed if the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 per side (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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