How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings on a 2019-2023 Ford Ranger
Step-by-step suspension bushing repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings on a 2019-2023 Ford Ranger
Step-by-step suspension bushing repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Ranger - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Assumption: “Suspension bushings” means the front lower control arm bushings on your Ranger.
This repair replaces the rubber bushings that let the front lower control arms pivot smoothly. Worn bushings can cause clunks, loose steering feel, uneven tire wear, and poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Ranger with jack stands only; never work under a vehicle held by a jack alone.
- ⚠️ The front coilover/strut assembly stays installed, but suspension parts can still shift suddenly when bolts are removed.
- ⚠️ Mark cam bolt positions before removal. Cam bolts are alignment bolts used to adjust wheel angle.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
- ⚠️ Do not fully tighten control arm bushing bolts while the suspension is hanging. Final tightening must be done at normal ride height.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 ft-lbs minimum)
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 18mm wrench
- 15mm wrench
- 10mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Hydraulic press (12-ton minimum) (specialty)
- Control arm bushing press adapters (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Pry bar
- Rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower control arm front bushing - Qty: 2
- Front lower control arm rear bushing - Qty: 2
- Front lower control arm cam bolt kit - Qty: 2
- Lower ball joint nut - Qty: 2
- Alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Ranger on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts and lower ball joint nuts.
- Take photos of the control arm bolt positions before disassembly.
- A hydraulic press is a shop-style tool that pushes bushings in and out with controlled force.
- If you do not have a press, remove the control arms and have a local machine shop press the bushings.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Support the Front End
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Ranger at the front crossmember.
- Place jack stands under the frame rails.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands.
- Use the 21mm socket to remove the front wheels.
- Shake vehicle gently before crawling under.
Step 2: Mark the Alignment Cam Bolts
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of each lower control arm cam washer against the frame.
- Mark both the front and rear lower control arm bolts.
- These marks help you get close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
Step 3: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached near the lower control arm area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to release plastic wire clips carefully.
- Move the wiring and hose aside without stretching them.
Step 4: Separate the Lower Ball Joint
- Use an 18mm wrench or 18mm socket to loosen the lower ball joint nut.
- Do not remove the nut fully at first; leave it threaded on a few turns for safety.
- Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- Once separated, remove the nut with the 18mm socket.
- A ball joint separator is a fork or press tool that safely pops the tapered joint loose.
Step 5: Support the Lower Control Arm
- Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm.
- Raise the jack just enough to support the arm, not lift the truck.
- This keeps the control arm from dropping suddenly when the bolts are removed.
Step 6: Remove the Lower Control Arm Bolts
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm cam bolt.
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the rear lower control arm cam bolt.
- Keep track of the cam washers and their positions.
- If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and work them back and forth slowly.
Step 7: Remove the Lower Control Arm
- Lower the floor jack slowly.
- Use a pry bar to guide the lower control arm out of the frame pockets.
- Remove the control arm from your Ranger.
- Inspect the ball joint boot. If it is torn or loose, replace the complete lower control arm instead.
Step 8: Press Out the Old Bushings
- Set the control arm in a hydraulic press (12-ton minimum) (specialty).
- Use control arm bushing press adapters (specialty) that support the arm around the bushing shell.
- Press the old front bushing out slowly.
- Press the old rear bushing out slowly.
- Do not press on thin control arm edges; the arm can bend.
- Support the arm close to the bushing.
Step 9: Press In the New Bushings
- Compare each new bushing to the old one before installation.
- Use the hydraulic press (12-ton minimum) (specialty) and control arm bushing press adapters (specialty) to press in the new front bushing.
- Use the same tools to press in the new rear bushing.
- Make sure each bushing seats fully and squarely in the control arm.
- If the bushing has an orientation mark, match it to the original bushing position.
Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Control Arm
- Position the lower control arm back into the frame pockets by hand.
- Use a rubber mallet if light tapping is needed.
- Install the front and rear cam bolts by hand first.
- Use your paint marker marks to position the cam washers close to the original alignment.
- Snug the bolts with a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench, but do not final-tighten yet.
Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint
- Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm until the ball joint stud enters the steering knuckle.
- Install the new lower ball joint nut by hand.
- Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lower ball joint nut to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reattach Brackets and Wiring
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall brake hose and ABS wire brackets.
- Make sure the brake hose is not twisted.
- Make sure the ABS wire is clipped in and away from the tire.
Step 13: Set Suspension to Ride Height
- Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise the suspension until it is near normal ride height.
- Normal ride height means the control arm sits about where it does when the truck is on the ground.
- This prevents the new rubber bushings from being twisted at rest.
Step 14: Final-Tighten the Control Arm Bolts
- Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower control arm cam bolts.
- Tighten each lower control arm cam bolt to Torque to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
- Keep the cam washers aligned with your paint marks while tightening.
Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install the front wheels by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Raise your Ranger slightly with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce the front of your Ranger a few times to settle the suspension.
- ✅ Check that brake hoses and ABS wires are secure and not rubbing.
- ✅ Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing noises.
- ✅ Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the truck pulls, avoid highway driving until aligned.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)
You Save: $580-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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