🔧 Outback - Suspension Bushing Replacement

Suspension bushings are rubber isolators pressed into control arms, sway bar mounts, and suspension links. On your Outback, the most common DIY bushing replacement is the front lower control arm bushing, but many owners replace the complete lower control arm because the bushings are press-fit and require special tools.

Assumption: This guide covers replacing the front lower control arms with bushings already installed, which is the beginner-friendly repair path.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under the proper front support points before getting under your Outback.
• ⚠️ Suspension parts can shift suddenly when bolts are removed, so keep fingers clear of pinch points.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen or remove the axle nut for this repair.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm pivot bolts should be done with the suspension at normal ride height to prevent premature bushing failure.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing front control arms or major suspension bushings.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Hammer 16-ounce
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm with bushings and ball joint - Left - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm with bushings and ball joint - Right - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 kit
• Front sway bar end link nuts - Qty: 2
• Ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on level ground, shift into 1st gear, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts, sway bar end link nuts, and ball joint pinch bolts at least 10-15 minutes before removal.
• Take a quick photo of each control arm before removal so you can compare the new part orientation.
• A ball joint separator is a tool that separates the ball joint from the steering knuckle without damaging nearby parts.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
• Do not remove the nuts yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Outback

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Push the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the rear control arm bushing bracket against the subframe.
• This helps keep the new arm close to the original position before the alignment shop sets it correctly.

Step 5: Disconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the sway bar end link nut from the lower control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold the back side with the 14mm wrench while turning the nut with the 14mm socket.
• Move the end link aside by hand.

Step 6: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut at the bottom of the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the suspension.
• If the bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap the bolt lightly with a hammer 16-ounce.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully between the control arm and knuckle if extra leverage is needed.
• Do not pry against the rubber CV axle boot.
• Protect the axle boot from tears.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Support the control arm by hand as the bolt comes out.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to remove the rear lower control arm bushing bolt and nut.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently work the control arm out of the subframe pocket.
• Remove the control arm from the vehicle.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm

• Compare the new control arm with the old one by placing them side by side.
• Use your hands to position the new control arm into the front and rear subframe pockets.
• Install the rear mounting bolt by hand first.
• Install the front mounting bolt by hand next.
• Do not fully tighten the pivot bolts yet.
• Hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading.

Step 11: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the control arm upward if needed.
• Install the ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the pinch bolt to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Insert the sway bar end link stud into the lower control arm.
• Use a 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the nut to Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Snug the Control Arm Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to snug the front mounting bolt.
• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to snug the rear mounting bolt.
• Do not final-torque these bolts while the suspension is hanging down.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the opposite front lower control arm.
• Use the same tools and keep the left and right parts separated.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels

• Install both front wheels by hand.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Outback to Ride Height

• Use a floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the front tires are supporting the vehicle’s weight.
• This is called ride height, meaning the suspension is sitting in its normal driving position.

Step 17: Final-Torque the Control Arm Bolts

• Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the front control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the rear control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Final torque at ride height matters.

Step 18: Torque the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Tighten each lug nut to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks or binding.
• ✅ Drive slowly around the block and check for knocking, wandering, or steering pull.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• ✅ Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, avoid highway driving until aligned.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $220-$480 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $300-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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