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2019 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2019 Toyota Highlander

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How to Replace Control Arms 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

How to Replace Control Arms 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings on a 2008-2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step suspension bushing repair guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings on a 2008-2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step suspension bushing repair guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

On your Highlander, the main front suspension bushings are built into the front lower control arms. For a beginner DIY repair, the safest and most practical method is to replace the complete lower control arm assembly instead of pressing individual bushings in and out.

This repair restores proper wheel control, reduces clunks, and helps prevent uneven tire wear. An alignment is required afterward.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Highlander only on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ The suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint and control arm.
  • ⚠️ Do not fully tighten control arm pivot bolts while the suspension is hanging. Final tightening must be done at normal ride height to avoid twisting the new bushings.
  • ⚠️ Replace control arms in pairs if both sides show age, cracking, or looseness.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
  • Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
  • Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • 19mm wrench
  • 22mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Flat pry bar 18-inch
  • Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
  • Dead blow hammer 2-lb
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front lower control arm assembly, left - Qty: 1
  • Front lower control arm assembly, right - Qty: 1
  • Lower ball joint cotter pins - Qty: 2
  • Replacement suspension fasteners as required - Qty: 1 kit

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on level ground.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts and ball joint fasteners.
  • A ball joint separator is a tool that safely pops the tapered ball joint stud loose from the steering knuckle.
  • Plan for a professional four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
  • Place 3-ton jack stands under the proper front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the 3-ton floor jack nearby, but do not rely on it as the only support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Control Arm Layout

  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the control arm bolts and washers before removal.
  • This helps you return the parts close to their original position before the alignment.
  • Look for torn rubber bushings, cracked rubber, leaking fluid-filled bushings, or metal-to-metal movement.

Step 5: Disconnect Any Attached Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket with the ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached near the control arm area.
  • Move the wiring and hose gently aside without stretching them.
  • Do not pull on ABS wires.

Step 6: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Nut

  • Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
  • Use the correct-size 19mm socket or 22mm socket with the ratchet 1/2-inch drive to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut.
  • If the nut is tight, use the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

  • Install the ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the lower ball joint and steering knuckle.
  • Tighten the separator with the proper socket from your tool until the taper pops loose.
  • Use the dead blow hammer 2-lb only for light tapping if needed.
  • Do not hit the ball joint threads directly.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

  • Use the 19mm socket or 22mm socket with the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front control arm pivot bolt.
  • Hold the nut with the matching 19mm wrench or 22mm wrench if it turns.
  • Remove the bolt and set it aside in order.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

  • Use the 19mm socket or 22mm socket with the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the rear control arm pivot bolt.
  • Use the matching 19mm wrench or 22mm wrench to hold the opposite side if needed.
  • Remove the rear bolt carefully. The control arm may shift when the bolt comes out.

Step 10: Remove the Lower Control Arm

  • Use the flat pry bar 18-inch to gently work the control arm out of the subframe mounts.
  • Remove the control arm from the vehicle.
  • Compare the old and new control arm assemblies before installation.

Step 11: Install the New Lower Control Arm

  • Slide the new front lower control arm assembly into the subframe mounts by hand.
  • Use the flat pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment help.
  • Install the front and rear pivot bolts by hand first.
  • Do not fully tighten the pivot bolts yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

  • Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the ball joint nut using the correct-size 19mm socket or 22mm socket.
  • Tighten the ball joint nut securely, then align the cotter pin hole.
  • Install a new lower ball joint cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
  • Torque to Toyota service-specification value for your suspension fastener.

Step 13: Reattach Brackets and Wiring

  • Use the 10mm socket or 12mm socket with the ratchet 3/8-inch drive to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire brackets removed earlier.
  • Make sure hoses and wiring are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing the tire.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 5 through 13 on the opposite side using the same tools.
  • Replacing both sides keeps suspension response even.

Step 15: Load the Suspension Before Final Tightening

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack under the lower control arm to gently raise the suspension until it is close to normal ride height.
  • This means the control arm should sit roughly where it sits when the vehicle is on the ground.
  • Now tighten the front and rear control arm pivot bolts using the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct 19mm socket or 22mm socket.
  • Torque to Toyota service-specification value for your control arm pivot bolts.
  • Ride-height tightening protects bushings.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Install the front wheels by hand.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Do not fully torque them while the vehicle is still raised.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque Lug Nuts

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise the front slightly and remove the 3-ton jack stands.
  • Lower your Highlander fully to the ground.
  • Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for rubbing, popping, or binding.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
  • ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, avoid highway driving until aligned.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $350-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.


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