🔧 Kicks - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement

The front lower ball joint connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle and lets the wheel steer while the suspension moves. On your Kicks, the lower ball joint is serviced as part of the front lower control arm assembly, so the correct repair is replacing the affected lower control arm rather than pressing out only the joint.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Kicks with jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on the floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Suspension parts can release suddenly when separated.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud or threads. Damage can make reassembly unsafe.
• ⚠️ Replace the lower control arm nut and ball joint pinch fastener if supplied with the new part.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing a lower control arm.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 16mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 16mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Paint marker
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil spray
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly with ball joint - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly with ball joint - Replace in pairs if both sides are worn - Qty: 2
• Ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets per side
• New cotter pin or retaining clip if equipped - Qty: 1 per side

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Kicks on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🔎 Compare the new lower control arm to the old one before removal. The shape, bushing positions, and ball joint location must match.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the original control arm bolt positions. This helps you get close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• 📌 A ball joint separator is a wedge-style tool that safely separates the tapered ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• 📌 A control arm bushing is the rubber-mounted sleeve where the arm bolts to the body or subframe.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do this while the tire is still touching the ground so the wheel does not spin.
• Loosen only; do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point or approved side pinch weld lift point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower your Kicks gently onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Clean and Mark the Mounting Points

• Use the wire brush to clean dirt and rust from the lower control arm bolts and ball joint area.
• Spray the fasteners with penetrating oil spray and let it soak for a few minutes.
• Use the paint marker to mark around the control arm mounting bolt washers and brackets.

Step 5: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Locate the ball joint where the lower control arm attaches to the bottom of the steering knuckle.
• Use the correct-size 16mm socket, 17mm socket, or 18mm socket with the matching wrench to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is tight, use the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive carefully. Do not round the bolt head.
• Set the old pinch bolt aside if you are replacing it with new hardware.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the lower control arm ball joint and the steering knuckle.
• Apply steady pressure until the ball joint stud releases from the knuckle.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch to gently push the lower control arm downward if needed.
• Use the rubber mallet only on the control arm or knuckle area, not on the ball joint threads.
• Keep fingers away from pinch points.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Support the lower control arm with one hand or the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum lightly under the arm.
• Use the correct-size 18mm socket, 19mm socket, or 21mm socket with a matching wrench to remove the rear lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Use the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive if the fastener is tight.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use the correct-size 18mm socket, 19mm socket, or 21mm socket with a matching wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Pull the lower control arm out of the subframe brackets.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch gently if the bushings are stuck in the brackets.

Step 9: Install the New Lower Control Arm

• Slide the new front lower control arm assembly with ball joint into the subframe brackets.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading.
• Use the ratchet 1/2-inch drive and correct-size socket to snug the bolts, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Leave bushing bolts loose for now.

Step 10: Reconnect the Ball Joint to the Steering Knuckle

• Guide the ball joint stud into the bottom of the steering knuckle by hand.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch carefully to align the control arm if needed.
• Install the new ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use the correct-size 16mm socket, 17mm socket, or 18mm socket with the matching wrench to tighten the pinch bolt.
• Torque to 62 Nm (46 ft-lbs) if using OEM-style replacement hardware.

Step 11: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Place the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum under the outer end of the lower control arm.
• Raise the arm slightly until it sits near normal ride height. This means the arm looks close to its normal position when the vehicle is on the ground.
• This prevents twisting the rubber bushings after installation.

Step 12: Tighten the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct-size socket to tighten the front lower control arm mounting bolt.
• Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct-size socket to tighten the rear lower control arm mounting bolt.
• Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs).
• Lower and remove the jack from under the control arm.

Step 13: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift your Kicks slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for clunks or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Keep speed low and avoid hard braking until you confirm the vehicle tracks normally.
• ✅ Recheck that the ball joint pinch bolt and control arm bolts are tight after the first short drive.
• ✅ Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible. Replacing a lower control arm can change camber and toe.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, do not keep driving long distances before alignment because tire wear can happen quickly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 per side (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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