How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Ball Joints - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
This guide covers the front lower ball joints on your F-150. On this truck, the upper ball joint is serviced with the upper control arm, so the lower ball joints are the ones typically replaced separately.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the truck with jack stands on solid ground. Never work under a truck held only by a jack.
- Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels.
- Keep your hands clear when separating the knuckle from the control arm.
- Brake hose and ABS wire damage is easy during knuckle movement. Do not let the knuckle hang by the hose.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
- After the repair, a front-end alignment is required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Socket set, metric and SAE
- Wrench set, metric and SAE
- Ball joint press kit (specialty)
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Hammer
- Pry bar
- Needle nose pliers
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower ball joint - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Ball joint snap ring - Qty: 2
- Ball joint dust boot - Qty: 2
- Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- Spray the ball joint, knuckle pinch area, and fasteners with penetrating oil ahead of time.
- Raise the front end and support it securely with jack stands.
- Remove the front wheels for full access.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the front wheel
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
- Set the wheel aside flat so it cannot roll.
Step 2: Free up the steering knuckle
- Use a wrench set and socket set to remove the fasteners holding the brake hose bracket or ABS wire brackets as needed.
- Move the line aside gently so it will not stretch.
- Do not let the brake hose hang.
Step 3: Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to break the lower ball joint loose from the steering knuckle.
- If needed, use a hammer to help shock the taper free.
- Support the knuckle so it does not drop suddenly.
Step 4: Remove the lower ball joint from the control arm
- Use the ball joint press kit (specialty) to press the old ball joint out of the lower control arm.
- Clean the bore with a wire brush before installing the new part.
- Clean metal makes pressing much easier.
Step 5: Install the new lower ball joint
- Use the ball joint press kit (specialty) to press the new ball joint into the control arm squarely.
- Install the snap ring using needle nose pliers if your replacement uses one.
- Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) for the ball joint retaining fasteners if equipped with bolts.
Step 6: Reconnect the steering knuckle
- Raise or lower the knuckle as needed and guide the ball joint stud into the knuckle.
- Install the nut using a wrench set and tighten it securely.
- Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) for the lower ball joint nut.
Step 7: Reinstall brackets and wheel
- Reinstall any ABS wire or brake hose brackets using a socket set.
- Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.
Step 8: Repeat on the other side
- Replace ball joints in pairs so both sides wear evenly.
- Repeat the same steps on the opposite side.
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for binding.
- Inspect the ball joint area and brake hose routing.
- Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or pops.
- Schedule a professional front-end alignment right away.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $380-$620 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















