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2016 GMC Canyon
2015 - 2020 GMC Canyon
Base
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Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon - Upper Control Arm Replacement

Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon - Upper Control Arm Replacement

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2022 GMC Canyon (Trim: Base)

Step-by-step upper and lower control arm guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2022 GMC Canyon (Trim: Base)

Step-by-step upper and lower control arm guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Canyon - Front Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front upper and lower control arms on your Canyon. Control arms hold the wheel in position and contain bushings and ball joints that can wear out, causing clunks, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Assumption: This guide covers front upper and lower control arms on both sides.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Canyon with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack.
  • ⚠️ The front coil spring/shock assembly is under load. Do not remove the spring from the strut unless you have the correct spring compressor and experience.
  • ⚠️ Mark the lower control arm alignment cam bolts before removal. These affect wheel alignment.
  • ⚠️ A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
  • ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not normally required for this job.
  • ⚠️ If equipped with electronic suspension or modified lift parts, procedures may differ.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 24mm socket
  • 15mm wrench
  • 18mm wrench
  • 21mm wrench
  • 22mm wrench
  • 24mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Ball joint separator (specialty)
  • Pry bar
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Paint marker
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush
  • Anti-seize compound

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front upper control arm - Left: 1, Right: 1
  • Front lower control arm - Left: 1, Right: 1
  • Front control arm hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Front lower control arm cam bolt kit - Qty: 1
  • New cotter pins - Qty: 4
  • Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Canyon on flat, solid ground.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint nuts, sway bar link nuts, and shock lower bolts.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm cam bolts. A cam bolt is an offset alignment bolt that changes wheel alignment.
  • Plan to drive directly to an alignment shop after the repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheels

  • Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Break lugs loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

  • Use a floor jack under the front frame crossmember to raise your Canyon.
  • Place jack stands under the frame rails.
  • Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
  • Shake the truck lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use a 22mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Step 4: Mark the Lower Control Arm Cam Bolts

  • Use a paint marker to mark the cam bolt washers and frame brackets.
  • Make clear alignment marks on both front and rear lower control arm mounting points.
  • This helps get the alignment close enough to safely reach the shop.

Step 5: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached to the control arm or knuckle.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to release plastic wire retainers.
  • Do not stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link

  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the lower control arm.
  • A sway bar link connects the suspension to the stabilizer bar to reduce body roll.
  • Move the link out of the way.
  • During installation, tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Support the Lower Control Arm

  • Place the floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm.
  • Raise the jack just enough to support the arm.
  • Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Shock Bolt

  • Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the lower shock mounting bolt.
  • Pull the shock lower mount free from the lower control arm.
  • During installation, tighten the lower shock bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Separate the Upper Ball Joint

  • Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint nut.
  • Use an 18mm wrench or 18mm socket to loosen the upper ball joint nut a few turns, but leave it on the stud.
  • Use a ball joint separator to pop the upper ball joint loose from the steering knuckle.
  • A ball joint separator safely breaks the tapered joint free without hammering the knuckle hard.
  • Remove the nut fully once the joint is loose.
  • During installation, tighten the upper ball joint nut to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs), then tighten farther only as needed to install the cotter pin.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Control Arm

  • Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the two upper control arm mounting bolts.
  • Remove the upper control arm from the frame brackets.
  • Install the new upper control arm in the same direction as the old one.
  • Start both bolts by hand before tightening.
  • Final tightening should be done at normal ride height.
  • Final upper control arm bolt torque is Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Separate the Lower Ball Joint

  • Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
  • Use a 24mm socket to loosen the lower ball joint nut a few turns.
  • Use a ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  • Keep the floor jack under the lower control arm while separating it.
  • Once loose, remove the nut fully.
  • During installation, tighten the lower ball joint nut to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs), then tighten farther only as needed to install the cotter pin.

Step 12: Remove the Lower Control Arm Cam Bolts

  • Use a 24mm socket and 24mm wrench to remove the front and rear lower control arm cam bolts.
  • Hold each cam washer as the bolt comes out so you can see how it was positioned.
  • Use a pry bar if the control arm is tight in the frame brackets.
  • Remove the lower control arm from your Canyon.

Step 13: Install the New Lower Control Arm

  • Use a wire brush to clean the lower control arm frame brackets.
  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the cam bolt shanks only.
  • Position the new lower control arm in the frame brackets.
  • Install the cam bolts, washers, and nuts by hand.
  • Line up your paint marks as closely as possible.
  • Do not fully tighten the cam bolts yet.

Step 14: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

  • Raise the lower control arm slightly with the floor jack.
  • Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Install the lower ball joint nut by hand.
  • Use a 24mm socket to tighten the nut to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
  • Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.

Step 15: Reconnect the Upper Ball Joint

  • Guide the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Install the upper ball joint nut by hand.
  • Use an 18mm socket or 18mm wrench to tighten the nut to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
  • Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.

Step 16: Reinstall the Shock and Sway Bar Link

  • Use the floor jack to raise or lower the control arm until the shock mount lines up.
  • Install the lower shock bolt by hand.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to tighten the lower shock bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the sway bar link to the lower control arm.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire brackets.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to seat plastic retainers fully.
  • Check that hoses and wires do not rub the tire, spring, or control arms.

Step 18: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 17 on the opposite front side.
  • Replace control arms in pairs when possible for even handling.

Step 19: Tighten Control Arm Bolts at Ride Height

  • Install the wheels by hand using a 22mm socket.
  • Lower your Canyon onto ramps or support the lower control arms with the floor jack so the suspension sits near normal ride height.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to tighten the upper control arm bolts to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
  • Use a 24mm socket and 24mm wrench to tighten the lower control arm cam bolts to Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
  • Tightening at ride height protects bushings.

Step 20: Torque the Wheels

  • Lower your Canyon fully to the ground.
  • Use a 22mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce the front of your Canyon a few times to settle the suspension.
  • ✅ Check that all cotter pins are installed.
  • ✅ Check that brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped in place and not stretched.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
  • ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment immediately.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours plus alignment time.


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