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2019 Ford F-150
2015 - 2020 Ford F-150
King Ranch
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How to Replace Upper Control Arms 2015-2020 Ford F-150

How to Replace Upper Control Arms 2015-2020 Ford F-150

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 F-150 - Front Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front suspension control arms on your F-150. Control arms hold the wheel assembly in position and allow the suspension to move up and down; worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, wandering steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This guide covers the front upper and lower control arms on your 4WD F-150; replace arms in pairs when possible.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ The front coilover strut is under spring pressure. Do not remove the center strut shaft nut.
  • ⚠️ Always support your F-150 with jack stands. Never work under a truck held only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ A ball joint separator is a tool that safely separates the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without hammering directly on the stud.
  • ⚠️ Control arm bolts must be final-tightened at normal ride height. Tightening them while the suspension hangs can damage the new bushings.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this mechanical repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 21mm wrench
  • 18mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • Ball joint separator (specialty)
  • Pry bar
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Wire brush

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front upper control arms - Left and Right - Qty: 2
  • Front lower control arms - Left and Right - Qty: 2
  • Upper control arm nuts and bolts - Qty: 1 kit
  • Lower control arm nuts and bolts - Qty: 1 kit
  • Ball joint nuts - Qty: 4
  • Cotter pins - Qty: 4
  • Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2

Note: Replace control arms in pairs left-to-right to keep suspension feel and ride height even.


📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🔩 Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm cam bolts before loosening them. Cam bolts are eccentric alignment bolts used to adjust wheel alignment.
  • 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
  • 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint nuts, and sway bar link nuts.
  • 📐 Schedule a professional wheel alignment before driving long distances.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front End

  • Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn.
  • Use the floor jack under the front crossmember to raise your F-150.
  • Place jack stands under the frame rails.
  • Lower the truck gently onto the stands.
  • Use the 21mm socket to remove the front wheels.
  • Shake truck gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use the 10mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket from the upper control arm area if attached.
  • Use the 10mm socket to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor wire bracket from the control arm or knuckle area.
  • Move the hose and wire aside carefully. Do not stretch or kink them.

Step 3: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar Link

  • Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the lower control arm.
  • Push the sway bar link out of the lower control arm.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench while removing the nut with the 18mm socket.

Step 4: Separate the Upper Ball Joint

  • Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint nut.
  • Use the 18mm socket or 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the upper ball joint nut.
  • Use the ball joint separator to separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  • Support the steering knuckle by hand so it does not pull on the brake hose.
  • Do not hammer the threaded stud.

Step 5: Remove the Upper Control Arm

  • Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the two upper control arm mounting bolts and nuts.
  • Slide the upper control arm out from the frame brackets.
  • Compare the new upper control arm with the old one before installing it.

Step 6: Install the New Upper Control Arm

  • Place the new upper control arm into the frame brackets.
  • Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to install the mounting bolts and nuts loosely.
  • Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
  • Insert the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Use the 18mm socket to install the new ball joint nut.
  • Torque upper ball joint nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to install the cotter pin.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to install the new cotter pin.

Step 7: Mark the Lower Control Arm Cam Bolts

  • Use the paint marker to mark the position of each lower control arm cam washer against the frame.
  • This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
  • Marks are not a substitute for alignment.

Step 8: Support the Lower Control Arm

  • Place the floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
  • Raise the jack just enough to support the arm.
  • Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.

Step 9: Separate the Lower Ball Joint

  • Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
  • Use the 21mm socket or 21mm wrench to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut.
  • Use the ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  • Carefully support the steering knuckle so it does not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 10: Remove the Lower Control Arm

  • Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
  • Slide the cam bolts out while noting their original direction.
  • Lower the floor jack slowly and remove the lower control arm.
  • If the arm sticks in the bracket, use the pry bar and dead blow hammer to work it loose.

Step 11: Install the New Lower Control Arm

  • Position the new lower control arm in the frame brackets.
  • Use the floor jack to raise the arm into place.
  • Install the cam bolts in the same direction they were removed.
  • Align the cam washers with your paint marks.
  • Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to install the nuts loosely.
  • Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 12: Connect the Lower Ball Joint

  • Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
  • Use the 21mm socket to install the new lower ball joint nut.
  • Torque lower ball joint nut to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to install the cotter pin.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to install the new cotter pin.

Step 13: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

  • Insert the sway bar link into the lower control arm.
  • Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to install the nut.
  • Torque sway bar link nut to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use the 10mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket.
  • Use the 10mm socket to reinstall the ABS wire bracket.
  • Make sure the wire and hose do not rub the tire, spring, or control arm.

Step 15: Final-Tighten Control Arm Bolts at Ride Height

  • Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise the suspension until the truck’s weight is close to normal ride height.
  • Use the 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the upper control arm mounting bolts.
  • Torque upper control arm mounting bolts to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).
  • Use the 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
  • Torque lower control arm cam bolt nuts to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
  • Ride-height tightening protects new bushings.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Use the 21mm socket to reinstall the front wheels and snug the lug nuts.
  • Use the floor jack to raise your F-150 slightly and remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the truck to the ground.
  • Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque wheel lug nuts to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Bounce the front of your F-150 a few times and listen for clunks.
  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check that hoses and wires do not stretch or rub.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for knocking, popping, or steering pull.
  • ✅ Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • ✅ Recheck all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
  • ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,000 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours including alignment-related setup.


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