How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Control Arms on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Front Control Arm Replacement
This repair replaces the front suspension control arms on your F-150. Control arms hold the wheel assembly in position and allow the suspension to move up and down; worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, wandering steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Assumption: This guide covers the front upper and lower control arms on your 4WD F-150; replace arms in pairs when possible.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ The front coilover strut is under spring pressure. Do not remove the center strut shaft nut.
- ⚠️ Always support your F-150 with jack stands. Never work under a truck held only by a jack.
- ⚠️ A ball joint separator is a tool that safely separates the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without hammering directly on the stud.
- ⚠️ Control arm bolts must be final-tightened at normal ride height. Tightening them while the suspension hangs can damage the new bushings.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this mechanical repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 18mm wrench
- 15mm wrench
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Pry bar
- Dead blow hammer
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front upper control arms - Left and Right - Qty: 2
- Front lower control arms - Left and Right - Qty: 2
- Upper control arm nuts and bolts - Qty: 1 kit
- Lower control arm nuts and bolts - Qty: 1 kit
- Ball joint nuts - Qty: 4
- Cotter pins - Qty: 4
- Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
Note: Replace control arms in pairs left-to-right to keep suspension feel and ride height even.
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔩 Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm cam bolts before loosening them. Cam bolts are eccentric alignment bolts used to adjust wheel alignment.
- 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint nuts, and sway bar link nuts.
- 📐 Schedule a professional wheel alignment before driving long distances.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Support the Front End
- Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Use the floor jack under the front crossmember to raise your F-150.
- Place jack stands under the frame rails.
- Lower the truck gently onto the stands.
- Use the 21mm socket to remove the front wheels.
- Shake truck gently to confirm stability.
Step 2: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use the 10mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket from the upper control arm area if attached.
- Use the 10mm socket to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor wire bracket from the control arm or knuckle area.
- Move the hose and wire aside carefully. Do not stretch or kink them.
Step 3: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar Link
- Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the lower control arm.
- Push the sway bar link out of the lower control arm.
- If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench while removing the nut with the 18mm socket.
Step 4: Separate the Upper Ball Joint
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint nut.
- Use the 18mm socket or 18mm wrench to loosen and remove the upper ball joint nut.
- Use the ball joint separator to separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- Support the steering knuckle by hand so it does not pull on the brake hose.
- Do not hammer the threaded stud.
Step 5: Remove the Upper Control Arm
- Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the two upper control arm mounting bolts and nuts.
- Slide the upper control arm out from the frame brackets.
- Compare the new upper control arm with the old one before installing it.
Step 6: Install the New Upper Control Arm
- Place the new upper control arm into the frame brackets.
- Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to install the mounting bolts and nuts loosely.
- Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
- Insert the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
- Use the 18mm socket to install the new ball joint nut.
- Torque upper ball joint nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to install the cotter pin.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install the new cotter pin.
Step 7: Mark the Lower Control Arm Cam Bolts
- Use the paint marker to mark the position of each lower control arm cam washer against the frame.
- This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
- Marks are not a substitute for alignment.
Step 8: Support the Lower Control Arm
- Place the floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
- Raise the jack just enough to support the arm.
- Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
Step 9: Separate the Lower Ball Joint
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
- Use the 21mm socket or 21mm wrench to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut.
- Use the ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- Carefully support the steering knuckle so it does not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.
Step 10: Remove the Lower Control Arm
- Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
- Slide the cam bolts out while noting their original direction.
- Lower the floor jack slowly and remove the lower control arm.
- If the arm sticks in the bracket, use the pry bar and dead blow hammer to work it loose.
Step 11: Install the New Lower Control Arm
- Position the new lower control arm in the frame brackets.
- Use the floor jack to raise the arm into place.
- Install the cam bolts in the same direction they were removed.
- Align the cam washers with your paint marks.
- Use the 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to install the nuts loosely.
- Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
Step 12: Connect the Lower Ball Joint
- Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
- Use the 21mm socket to install the new lower ball joint nut.
- Torque lower ball joint nut to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to install the cotter pin.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install the new cotter pin.
Step 13: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link
- Insert the sway bar link into the lower control arm.
- Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to install the nut.
- Torque sway bar link nut to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Reinstall Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use the 10mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket.
- Use the 10mm socket to reinstall the ABS wire bracket.
- Make sure the wire and hose do not rub the tire, spring, or control arm.
Step 15: Final-Tighten Control Arm Bolts at Ride Height
- Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise the suspension until the truck’s weight is close to normal ride height.
- Use the 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the upper control arm mounting bolts.
- Torque upper control arm mounting bolts to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).
- Use the 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
- Torque lower control arm cam bolt nuts to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
- Ride-height tightening protects new bushings.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels
- Use the 21mm socket to reinstall the front wheels and snug the lug nuts.
- Use the floor jack to raise your F-150 slightly and remove the jack stands.
- Lower the truck to the ground.
- Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce the front of your F-150 a few times and listen for clunks.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check that hoses and wires do not stretch or rub.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for knocking, popping, or steering pull.
- ✅ Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
- ✅ Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $450-$1,000 (parts only)
You Save: $750-$1,200 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours including alignment-related setup.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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