How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
๐ง Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
Youโll be removing the front wheels, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the front rotors. Worn pads/rotors can cause noise, vibration, longer stopping distances, and uneven braking.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
โ ๏ธ Safety & Precautions
- ๐ Work on level ground and support your Accord with jack stands before going under/working at the wheels.
- ๐ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; the piston can pop out and leak.
- ๐ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose; it can damage the hose.
- ๐ Brake dust is unhealthy; use brake cleaner, not compressed air, and wear a mask.
- ๐ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
๐ง Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs range)
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8" drive
- Ratchet 1/2" drive
- Phillips #3 screwdriver
- C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Flathead screwdriver
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask
๐ฉ Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
๐ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap resting on top (not tightened) so fluid can move as you compress pistons.
๐จ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the front
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the front lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Lift the front with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car down securely onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 2: Remove the front wheels
- Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2" drive to remove the lug nuts and take both front wheels off.
Step 3: Remove the brake caliper
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on one side.
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8" drive to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
- Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.
Step 4: Remove the old pads and bracket
- Remove the old pads from the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
- Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2" drive to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket.
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- If your rotor has retaining screws, use a Phillips #3 screwdriver to remove them.
- If the rotor is stuck, tap around the hat (center area) with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
- Pull the rotor off the hub.
Step 6: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor
- Use brake cleaner spray and shop rags to clean rust/dirt off the hub face.
- Use a wire brush to remove stubborn rust so the new rotor sits flat (this prevents steering wheel shake).
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop rags (new rotors often have an oily coating).
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
- If equipped, reinstall the rotor retaining screw(s) using a Phillips #3 screwdriver (snug only).
Step 8: Reinstall the bracket and torque bolts
- Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
- Install the bracket bolts by hand, then tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2" drive.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Service the slide pins and install new hardware
- Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand (wipe them with shop rags).
- Apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease to the smooth part of each slide pin, then reinstall them.
- Install new pad clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket.
- Grease stays off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
Step 10: Compress the caliper piston
- Place the old inner pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses evenly.)
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. If it gets too full, remove a little fluid with shop rags (do not overflow).
Step 11: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket (they should slide smoothly on the new clips).
- Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide bolt holes.
- Install the slide bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench 3/8" drive.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel
- Repeat Steps 3 through 11 on the opposite side using the same tools.
- Do one side at a time to stay organized.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2" drive.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
โ After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10โ15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
- Check the brake fluid level at the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Do a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm normal stopping and no pulling/no grinding.
- Bed-in the pads: make 6โ10 medium stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops (donโt hold the pedal at a complete stop right after).
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25โ50 miles using a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2" drive.
๐ฐ DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
๐ฏ Ready to get started?
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