🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads on your Forester. Brake pads wear down over time and should be replaced before they get too thin, squeal constantly, or damage the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone. Always support your Forester with jack stands.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and a rag.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid and grease off the rotor and pad friction surfaces.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake pad replacement.
• ⚠️ The electronic parking brake is on the rear brakes, so no EPB service mode is needed for the front pads.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 14mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Disc brake caliper spreader (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Small nylon brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Disc brake quiet compound - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 pint

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Forester on level ground.
• Shift to Park and turn the ignition off.
• Apply the parking brake because only the front brakes are being serviced.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. This is the small translucent tank near the driver-side rear of the engine bay.
• Check the brake fluid level. If it is at the MAX line, use a clean rag around the reservoir and watch carefully while compressing the caliper pistons.
• A caliper piston is the round metal part inside the brake caliper that pushes the pads against the rotor.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Forester.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the sides of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Look at the brake rotor surface. The rotor is the large round metal disc behind the wheel.
• If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, heavily rusted, or has a strong vibration complaint, replace or resurface the rotors before installing new pads.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop rags to clean loose dust from the caliper area.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

• The caliper is the clamp-shaped part around the rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it steady with a 17mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
• Set the bolt somewhere clean.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently between the old pad and rotor to create a tiny amount of space.
• Lift the caliper upward like opening a hinged door.
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook to support the caliper if needed.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Protect the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Note the position of any wear indicator tab. The wear indicator is a small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn.
• Compare the old pads to the new front brake pad set to make sure the shape matches.

Step 8: Remove and Clean the Pad Hardware

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old metal pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the bracket areas where the clips sit.
• Use a small nylon brush to clean tight spots.
• Install the new clips from the front brake pad hardware kit by pressing them fully into the bracket.

Step 9: Check and Grease the Slide Pins

• Slide pins let the caliper move smoothly as the brakes apply and release.
• Pull each slide pin out by hand, one at a time.
• Wipe the old grease off with shop rags.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
• Push each slide pin back in until the rubber boot seats fully.
• Do not use regular grease. Brake slide pin grease is made to handle brake heat and rubber parts.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a disc brake caliper spreader to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid rises near the top.
• Compress the piston until it is fully seated and the new pads will fit over the rotor.
• Go slow to avoid overflow.

Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of disc brake quiet compound to the metal backing plates only.
• Do not put any grease or compound on the pad friction material or rotor.
• Slide the new pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the new hardware clips.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new brake pads by hand.
• Install the lower caliper slide bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolt.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench.
• Tighten the front caliper slide bolt to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the other front brake.
• Always replace front brake pads as a complete axle set, meaning both front wheels together.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each wheel back onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Forester until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Tighten the front wheel lug nuts to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before driving, press the brake pedal several times with your foot until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• If the pedal does not become firm, do not drive the vehicle.

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✅ After Repair

• Check the brake fluid reservoir and make sure the level is between MIN and MAX.
• Add DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is low.
• Start your Forester and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm.
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• Bed in the new pads: make 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, letting the brakes cool briefly between stops.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• Recheck lug nut torque after your first short drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $165-$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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