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2019 Mazda CX-5
2019 - 2021 Mazda CX-5
Grand Touring Reserve
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Guides
  • Mazda CX-5
  • 2019
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2019-2025 Mazda CX-5 (Trim: Grand Touring)
HOW TO CHANGE FRONT BRAKE PADS ON 2019 MAZDA CX-5 #😃#

HOW TO CHANGE FRONT BRAKE PADS ON 2019 MAZDA CX-5 #😃#

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2019-2025 Mazda CX-5 (Trim: Grand Touring)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2019-2025 Mazda CX-5 (Trim: Grand Touring)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021

Orion
Orion

🔧 CX-5 - Front Brake Pad Replacement

This is a manageable first brake job if you work carefully. You’ll remove both front wheels, lift each caliper, compress the pistons, and replace the pads and hardware as a complete axle set.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your CX-5 with jack stands. Never rely on the floor jack alone.
  • Do not press the brake pedal while either caliper is removed.
  • Work only after the brakes have completely cooled.
  • Do not let the caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the pistons. It may overflow.
  • Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • The electronic parking brake operates the rear brakes, so no service-mode procedure is required for this front-only repair.
  • Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You’ll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-200 Nm
  • Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Small wire brush
  • Caliper support hook
  • Brake-fluid syringe
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front ceramic brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Silicone brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, only if topping off is necessary

Replace the front pads on both sides together. One fresh side and one worn side is a shortcut nobody wants during a hard stop.


📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your CX-5 on solid, level ground. Shift into Park and apply the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind one rear tire.
  • Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one-half turn.
  • Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it’s completely full, use the brake-fluid syringe to remove a small amount.
  • Do not leave the reservoir open. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and damages painted surfaces.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack at the approved front-center lifting point.
  • Place both 3-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
  • Lower your CX-5 slowly onto the stands. Give it a careful stability check before removing a wheel.

Step 2: Remove both front wheels

  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the body as an additional safety measure.
  • Keep each wheel’s mounting face clean and dry.

Step 3: Inspect the brakes

  • Turn the steering wheel away from the side you’re working on for easier access.
  • Check the brake hose for cracks, wetness, twisting, or contact damage.
  • Inspect the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, heavy rust, or a pronounced outer lip.
  • Compare the inner and outer pad thickness. A large difference can indicate sticking hardware or a seized slide pin.

Step 4: Remove the caliper

  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • If a slide pin rotates, hold its flats with the 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket and suspend it with the caliper support hook.
  • Do not twist, stretch, or sharply bend the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and clips

  • Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to carefully lift the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
  • Use the small wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the clip mounting surfaces.
  • Do not brush or sand the rubber brake hose.
  • Clean rails let the pads release properly.

Step 6: Inspect the slide pins

  • Pull each slide pin partly from its rubber boot by hand.
  • Confirm that both pins move smoothly and that the boots are not torn.
  • Clean old lubricant from the pins and apply a thin coat of silicone brake caliper grease.
  • Do not use petroleum grease. It can damage the rubber boots.
  • Reinsert each pin and confirm that it slides freely without pulling the boot loose.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place one old brake pad flat against the piston.
  • A piston compressor is a screw-operated tool that pushes the piston evenly back into the caliper.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compressor to push the piston inward slowly and completely.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir during compression. Use the brake-fluid syringe if the level approaches the opening.
  • Stop if the piston tilts, binds, or requires extreme force. That can indicate a damaged or seized caliper.

Step 8: Install the new hardware and pads

  • Press the new front hardware clips firmly into the clean caliper bracket.
  • Apply a very thin film of silicone brake caliper grease where the pad ears contact the clips.
  • Keep grease completely off the pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • Install the inner and outer pads. They should slide without hammering or forced prying.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

  • Remove the caliper from the support hook and position it over the new pads.
  • Make sure the brake hose remains in its natural position without a twist.
  • Start both slide-pin bolts several turns by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Hold a rotating slide pin with the 17mm open-end wrench if necessary.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both slide-pin bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the opposite side

  • Repeat Steps 3 through 9 on the other front brake.
  • Compare the removed pads. Uneven wear should be investigated before driving normally.
  • Confirm that both calipers are securely installed and that no tools remain near the brakes.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheels

  • Clean dirt from the wheel and hub mating surfaces with the small wire brush.
  • Install each wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Raise your CX-5 slightly with the 3-ton floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it fully.
  • Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs). Mazda specifies an allowable range of 108-147 Nm, or 80-108 ft-lbs. mazdausa.com)
  • Do not apply oil or grease to the wheel studs or lug nuts.

✅ After Repair

  • Before starting the engine, slowly pump the brake pedal until it becomes firm. It may initially travel close to the floor.
  • Do not move your CX-5 until the pedal remains firm after repeated applications.
  • Check the brake-fluid level and inspect around both front calipers for leaks.
  • Top off only with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if the level is below the proper mark.
  • Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. Confirm that it feels normal and does not slowly sink.
  • Test the brakes at walking speed in a clear area before entering traffic.
  • Follow the bedding procedure supplied by the pad manufacturer. Avoid hard stops while the pads are bedding unless required for safety.
  • Stop driving immediately if you hear grinding, feel severe pulling, see a leak, or the pedal remains soft.
  • Recheck the lug-nut torque after approximately 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$100 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop rates vary by location. This repair generally takes a professional approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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