How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016-2020 Honda HR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016-2020 Honda HR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 HR-V - Front Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the front brake pads on your HR-V means removing the front wheels, opening each front brake caliper, swapping the pads, and carefully compressing the caliper piston so the new thicker pads fit.
This is a good beginner brake job if you work slowly, keep everything clean, and support the vehicle safely.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always support your HR-V with jack stands before working under or around the wheels. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and use brake cleaner instead of compressed air.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed from the rotor.
- ⚠️ Keep grease off the brake pad friction surface and rotor face.
- ⚠️ The brake fluid level may rise when you compress the caliper pistons. Watch the reservoir and remove excess fluid if needed.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for front brake pad replacement on your HR-V.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 12mm socket
- 17mm open-end wrench
- Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake caliper piston compressor tool
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Wire brush
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your HR-V on a flat, solid surface.
- Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that stop the vehicle from rolling.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver-side rear area of the engine bay.
- Check the brake fluid level. If it is near MAX, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool or turkey baster before compressing the caliper pistons.
- Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn while the tire is still on the ground.
- Do not fully remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen first, lift second.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point or the correct side pinch weld jack point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side pinch weld support points.
- Gently lower your HR-V onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly
- Look at the caliper, rotor, brake hose, and pads before taking anything apart.
- The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
- Check for fluid leaks, torn rubber boots, deep rotor grooves, or uneven pad wear.
- If the rotor is heavily grooved, cracked, or below minimum thickness, replace or machine the rotors before installing new pads.
Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the lower front caliper slide pin bolt.
- If the slide pin spins, hold the pin with a 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 12mm socket.
- A slide pin is a smooth guide pin that lets the caliper move side to side evenly.
Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up
- Use your hand to rotate the caliper upward away from the brake pads.
- If it is stuck, gently use a flat-blade screwdriver between the old pad and rotor to create a little space.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
- Rest the caliper carefully on the upper caliper bracket area.
Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
- If they are tight, use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry them out.
- Note which pad has the wear indicator clip. The wear indicator is a small metal tab that squeals when the pads are worn out.
Step 8: Remove and Clean the Pad Hardware
- Remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the bracket where the clips sit.
- Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it dry with shop rags.
- Clean clips help prevent brake noise.
Step 9: Install New Brake Pad Hardware
- Install the new front brake pad hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure each clip sits flat and fully snapped into place.
- Apply a very thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact areas on the clips.
- Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.
Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. If fluid rises close to the top, remove a small amount before continuing.
- The piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the inner brake pad.
- Go slow to protect the seals.
Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads
- Install the new inner and outer front brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pad ears slide smoothly in the new hardware clips.
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only to the pad backing plate contact points if the pad manufacturer allows it.
- Do not lubricate the friction side of the pads.
Step 12: Lower the Caliper Back Into Place
- Rotate the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
- If it does not fit, use the brake caliper piston compressor tool again to make sure the piston is fully seated.
- Do not force the caliper over the pads.
Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Caliper Bolt
- Install the lower caliper slide pin bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 12mm socket to tighten the bolt.
- If the slide pin spins, hold it with a 17mm open-end wrench.
- Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Move to the other front wheel and repeat Steps 3 through 13.
- Always replace front brake pads as a complete axle set, meaning both front sides together.
Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install each front wheel by hand.
- Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your HR-V to the ground.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Before driving, sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
- The pedal may go low at first, then become firm. This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
- Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Check the brake fluid reservoir and adjust the level to between MIN and MAX using DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- ✅ Start your HR-V and press the brake pedal again. Confirm the pedal feels firm.
- ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
- ✅ Listen for grinding, scraping, or clunking. Stop and recheck the work if anything sounds wrong.
- ✅ Bed in the new pads by making several gentle stops from 30-40 mph, allowing time between stops for cooling.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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