🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads on your Forester. Front pads wear faster than rear pads because they handle most of the stopping force, so replacing them restores safe braking and reduces rotor damage.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheels or brakes.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
• ⚠️ Your Forester uses a conventional front brake caliper, so no electronic parking brake service mode is needed for the front pads.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm open-end wrench
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Wire brush small
• Brake caliper hanger hook

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Forester on level ground and shift the manual transmission into 1st gear.
• 🅿️ Set the parking brake because you are working on the front brakes only.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. If it is near the “MAX” line, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster so it does not overflow when the caliper pistons are pushed back.
• 📘 A caliper is the brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor. The rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench or breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Loosen only; do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Forester

• Use the floor jack at the front center jacking point under the front crossmember.
• Raise the front of your Forester high enough for both front wheels to clear the ground.
• Place jack stands under the front side pinch weld jacking points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Fluid Reservoir

• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Look at the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.
• Leave the reservoir cap loosely sitting on top. This helps pressure escape when the caliper piston is pushed back.
• Use shop towels around the reservoir to catch any overflow.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room on the side you are working on.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.
• If the slide pin spins, hold the flat section of the pin with the 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
• A slide pin lets the caliper move slightly so both brake pads wear evenly.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hands to swing the caliper upward from the bottom.
• If it is stuck, use a medium flathead screwdriver gently between the old pad and caliper to create a little movement.
• Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use your hands to slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Use the medium flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
• Pad clips are small metal guides that help the pads slide smoothly.
• Keep one old pad nearby. You will use it to push the piston back evenly.

Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
• Use the small wire brush to remove rust where the pad clips sit.
• Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body panels.
• Clean brackets prevent brake squeaks.

Step 9: Install the New Pad Hardware

• Use your hands to snap the new front brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure each clip sits fully flat in the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the areas where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the brake pad friction surface or rotor face.

Step 10: Push the Caliper Piston Back

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the 6-inch C-clamp over the old pad and back of the caliper.
• Slowly tighten the 6-inch C-clamp until the piston is fully seated into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. Use shop towels if fluid rises too high.
• The piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the pad during braking.

Step 11: Install the New Front Brake Pads

• Use your hands to install the new inner and outer front brake pads into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
• If your pad set includes a wear indicator tab, install it in the same position as the original pad.
• The pads should slide easily in the clips. If they bind, remove them and recheck the clip seating.

Step 12: Lower the Caliper and Install the Slide Bolt

• Use your hands to swing the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Install the lower slide bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide bolt.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with the 17mm open-end wrench while tightening with the 14mm socket.

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Use the same tools and steps on the opposite front brake.
• Always replace front brake pads in pairs, left and right.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Use your hands to install the wheels onto the hubs.
• Start all lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Forester and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground fully.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• If the pedal stays soft or sinks, do not drive until the brake system is inspected.

Step 17: Check Brake Fluid Level

• Use shop towels and check the brake fluid reservoir.
• Make sure the level is between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks.
• Tighten the reservoir cap by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Forester and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking. Stop and recheck if you hear anything abnormal.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after your first short drive.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads if the pad manufacturer recommends it. A simple beginner-safe method is 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing a short cool-down between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless it is an emergency.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.