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2013 Subaru Outback
2013 - 2014 Subaru Outback
2.5i Flat 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • Subaru Outback
  • 2013
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2013-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
How to Replace Front Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

How to Replace Front Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2013-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2013, 2014

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2013-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads on your Outback means removing the front wheels, opening each front caliper, swapping the pads, and safely compressing the caliper piston. This restores braking performance and helps prevent rotor damage from worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near or under the vehicle.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
  • ⚠️ Front brake pads should be replaced in pairs, left and right side together.
  • ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this front brake pad repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
  • Disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Brake parts cleaning brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4 - Qty: 1 small bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground, shift into 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedge blocks that stop the vehicle from rolling.
  • 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount before compressing the caliper piston.
  • 🧼 Keep brake cleaner away from painted surfaces, rubber boots, and your eyes.
  • 🔩 A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
  • Tip: Loosen only, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Use your hands to lightly shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you continue.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Look at the rotor surface. The rotor is the large round metal disc behind the wheel.
  • If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, heavily rusted, or below minimum thickness, replace or resurface it before installing new pads.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold it steady with a 17mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
  • A slide pin is a smooth pin that lets the caliper move evenly as the brakes wear.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

  • Use your hands to carefully swing the caliper upward like opening a door.
  • Do not stretch, twist, or pull on the rubber brake hose.
  • If it is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently between the old pad and rotor to create a little space.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

  • Use your hands or a flathead screwdriver to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Notice how the old pads and metal hardware clips are installed before removal.
  • Tip: Take a phone picture first.

Step 8: Replace the Pad Hardware

  • Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the old metal pad clips from the caliper bracket.
  • Use a brake parts cleaning brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
  • Install the new clips from the front brake pad hardware kit by pressing them into the same positions.
  • Hardware clips are thin metal guides that let the pads slide smoothly.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use a disc brake piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid is about to overflow.
  • The piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.

Step 10: Lubricate the Contact Points

  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the pad ears where they touch the new hardware clips.
  • Use only a small amount. Keep grease off the brake pad friction surface and rotor.
  • The pad ears are the small tabs at each end of the brake pad.

Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Use your hands to slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket.
  • Make sure each pad sits flat and moves slightly by hand in the hardware clips.
  • Install the wear indicator in the same position as the original pad if equipped.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Carefully swing the caliper down over the new brake pads by hand.
  • If the caliper will not fit, use the disc brake piston compressor tool to compress the piston a little more.
  • Reinstall the lower caliper slide bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper slide bolt to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side

  • Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm wrench, flathead screwdriver, and disc brake piston compressor tool to replace the pads on the other front wheel.
  • Always replace both front sides during the same brake pad service.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Place each wheel back onto the hub by hand.
  • Thread all lug nuts on by hand first.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground fully.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Before driving, sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
  • Do not skip this step. The first pedal press may go low.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid if needed.
  • ✅ Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and normal.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing a short cool-down between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 USD equivalent (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 USD equivalent (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 USD equivalent by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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