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2018 Honda Civic
2012 - 2020 Honda Civic
EX
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DIY/ Replacing Front Brake Pads 2018 Honda Civic

DIY/ Replacing Front Brake Pads 2018 Honda Civic

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2012-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: EX)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2012-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: EX)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Civic - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads on your Civic means removing the front wheels, opening each front brake caliper, swapping the worn pads, and reinstalling everything correctly. The front brakes do most of the stopping, so take your time and keep everything clean.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Always support your Civic with jack stands; jack stands are metal safety supports that hold the vehicle up while you work.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can irritate your lungs. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
  • ⚠️ The front brake caliper must not hang by the rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for front brake pad replacement on your Civic.
  • ⚠️ The electronic parking brake does not need service mode for the front brakes; that applies to the rear brakes.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
  • C-clamp 6-inch
  • Flat blade screwdriver medium
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Brake parts cleaning brush
  • Brake cleaner spray nozzle
  • Turkey baster or fluid syringe
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Disc brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Civic on level ground and shift to Park.
  • Apply the parking brake before lifting the front of the vehicle.
  • Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires; wheel chocks are wedges that stop the car from rolling.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver-side rear area of the engine bay.
  • Check the fluid level. If it is near MAX, use a turkey baster or fluid syringe to remove a small amount so it does not overflow when the caliper piston is pushed in.
  • Do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen before lifting the car.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Civic

  • Use the floor jack at the front center jacking point or the approved front side pinch weld lift point.
  • Place jack stands under the front pinch weld support points.
  • Lower the Civic gently onto the jack stands.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to make sure it is stable before working near the brakes.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Look at the brake rotor surface. The rotor is the large metal disc the pads squeeze.
  • If the rotor has deep grooves, heavy rust, blue heat spots, or vibration while braking, replace or resurface the rotors before installing new pads.
  • Use brake cleaner spray nozzle and a brake parts cleaning brush to clean loose brake dust from the caliper area.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Pin Bolt

  • Locate the lower caliper slide pin bolt on the back side of the front caliper.
  • Use a 17mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin if it spins.
  • Use a 12mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the lower caliper bolt.
  • The slide pin is the small moving pin that lets the caliper float evenly as the pads wear.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

  • Use a flat blade screwdriver medium to gently pry the caliper outward just enough to loosen it.
  • Swing the caliper upward on the upper slide pin.
  • Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook so the brake hose is not stretched.
  • Never let the caliper hang.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a flat blade screwdriver medium if the pads are stuck, but do not gouge the bracket.
  • Remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with the flat blade screwdriver medium.
  • The pad clips are thin metal guides that help the pads move smoothly.

Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket

  • Use brake cleaner spray nozzle and a brake parts cleaning brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
  • Make sure the new pad clips sit flat and fully seated.
  • Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body panels.

Step 9: Install the New Pad Hardware

  • Install the new front brake pad hardware clips by hand into the caliper bracket.
  • Apply a thin layer of disc brake caliper grease to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
  • Do not get grease on the pad friction surface or rotor face.
  • A thin film is enough.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use a C-clamp 6-inch to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use a turkey baster or fluid syringe if the fluid rises too close to the top.
  • The piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad against the rotor.
  • Compress slowly to protect the brake hydraulic system.

Step 11: Install the New Front Brake Pads

  • Install the new inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
  • Use your fingers to confirm the pads slide smoothly in the new clips.
  • If the pads bind, remove them and recheck the clip seating.

Step 12: Lower and Bolt the Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Install the lower caliper slide pin bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin if needed.
  • Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to tighten the caliper slide pin bolt to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side

  • Move to the other front wheel and repeat Steps 3 through 12.
  • Use the same 19mm lug nut socket, 12mm socket, 17mm open-end wrench, and C-clamp 6-inch.
  • Always replace front brake pads in pairs.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Install each front wheel by hand.
  • Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Civic and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to lift the Civic slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Before driving, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
  • Do not skip this step. The pedal may go low on the first press.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • ✅ Make sure the brake pedal feels firm before moving the vehicle.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe area.
  • ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, clicking, or pulling to one side.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30-35 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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