🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores proper stopping power and prevents rotor damage from worn pads. On your Accord, you’ll remove the front caliper, swap the pads (and hardware if included), then reassemble and torque everything correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• 🛑 Do one side at a time so you can reference the other side.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 Wear a mask if brake dust is present; avoid blowing dust with compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid level. If it’s near MAX, remove a small amount so it won’t overflow when you push the caliper piston back.
• Crack the front wheel lug nuts loose before lifting the car.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the front

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (don’t remove) the front wheel lug nuts.
• Lift the front at the proper jacking point using a floor jack, then support with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and inspect everything

• Look through the caliper window to confirm pad wear.
• Quick check: if the rotor has deep grooves or heavy rust lip, consider replacing rotors too.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Remove the caliper bolts (slide pin bolts)

• Turn the steering wheel for easier access if needed.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.

Step 4: Support the caliper

• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
• Make sure the brake hose is not stretched or twisted.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket if you’re replacing them.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood for overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 7: Clean the bracket and install new hardware

• Spray the bracket and contact points with brake cleaner spray.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust where the pad clips sit.
• Install the new pad clips (hardware) into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide on the clips (not on the pad friction material).

Step 8: Install the new pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If one pad has a wear indicator “squealer,” match it to the same position as the old set on that side.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first (avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) for the front caliper slide pin bolts.

Step 10: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

Step 11: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat the same steps for the other front wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• With the engine running, do a low-speed test stop in a safe area.
• Pad break-in: do 6-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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