How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2009-2020 Honda Fit (Trim: LX | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2009-2020 Honda Fit (Trim: LX | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Fit - Front Brake Pad Replacement
This repair replaces the front brake pads on your Fit. Brake pads wear down over time and should be replaced before they get too thin, grind, or damage the rotors.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support the Fit with jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake parts may be hot if the vehicle was recently driven. Let everything cool first.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake pad replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- 12mm socket
- 17mm wrench
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
- Disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty)
- C-clamp 6-inch
- Flat-blade screwdriver medium
- Brake cleaner aerosol
- Nylon brush
- Bungee cord 18-inch
- Disposable nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Fit on level ground, shift into 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. It is the small translucent tank near the driver-side rear of the engine bay.
- Check the brake fluid level before pushing the caliper pistons back. If it is near MAX, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool to prevent overflow.
- A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
- A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the pads press against.
- Brake pad hardware means the small stainless clips that help the pads slide smoothly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
- Loosen only, do not remove yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Fit
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the front side pinch weld jack points.
- Lower the Fit gently onto the jack stands.
- Use your hands to gently shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you work underneath or near the wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.
Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly
- Use safety glasses and disposable nitrile gloves before touching brake parts.
- Look at the caliper, pads, rotor, and rubber brake hose.
- If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, heavily rusted, or below minimum thickness, the rotor should be replaced or professionally measured.
- Do one side at a time so the other side stays assembled as a reference.
Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room on the side you are working on.
- Use the 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to loosen the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
- If the slide pin spins, hold the slide pin with the 17mm wrench while removing the bolt with the 12mm socket.
- A slide pin is the smooth pin the caliper moves on as the brakes apply and release.
Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver medium carefully between the old pad and rotor to create a little clearance.
- Lift the caliper upward by hand.
- Use the bungee cord 18-inch to hold the caliper up and away from the brake hose.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware
- Pull the inner and outer brake pads out by hand.
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver medium to gently remove the stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket.
- Remember the position of the old clips before removal.
- Take a phone photo first.
Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket
- Use brake cleaner aerosol to clean the caliper bracket where the pad clips sit.
- Use the nylon brush to remove dirt and rust from the pad contact areas.
- Let the area dry completely before installing new hardware.
- Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body panels.
Step 9: Install the New Pad Hardware
- Press the new front brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure each clip sits fully flat and secure.
- Apply a very thin layer of brake lubricant only where the brake pad ears contact the clips.
- Do not get lubricant on the rotor face or pad friction material.
Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Check the brake fluid reservoir again before compressing the piston.
- Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
- Use the disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6-inch to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Go slowly. This pushes brake fluid back into the reservoir.
- If fluid rises near the top, stop and remove a small amount from the reservoir using a clean suction tool.
Step 11: Install the New Front Brake Pads
- Install the new front brake pad set into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pad friction material faces the rotor.
- The pads should slide smoothly in the clips. If they bind, remove them and recheck the clip position.
Step 12: Check and Grease the Slide Pin
- Pull the lower slide pin out by hand if it moves freely.
- Wipe off old grease with a clean rag.
- Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to the slide pin.
- Push the slide pin back into the bracket by hand.
- Use only slide pin grease here. Regular grease can swell the rubber boot.
Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Install the lower caliper bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 12mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the lower caliper bolt to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 13 on the opposite front brake.
- Use the same 12mm socket, 17mm wrench, disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty), and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive.
- Always replace front brake pads as a set on both sides.
Step 15: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Place each wheel back onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
Step 16: Lower the Fit and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the Fit slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower the Fit until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
- The pedal may feel soft at first, then become firm.
- Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.
Step 18: Check Brake Fluid Level
- Use DOT 3 brake fluid only if the reservoir level is below the proper mark.
- Fill only to the MAX line. Do not overfill.
- Reinstall the reservoir cap securely by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the Fit and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and steady.
- ✅ Before driving on the road, roll forward slowly in a safe area and test the brakes at walking speed.
- ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking. Stop and recheck the work if anything sounds wrong.
- ✅ Perform a gentle brake bed-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing short cooling time between stops.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
- ✅ Recheck the front lug nut torque after the first short drive using the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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