🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheels, unbolting the brake calipers and brackets, swapping the rotors, and installing new pads on your Altima. This restores braking performance, reduces vibration when braking, and prevents damage from worn parts.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands. Never work under a car held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; brake dust and rust flakes can fall into your eyes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; it can push the piston out.
• ⚠️ Brake components can be very hot after driving. Let the brakes cool before starting.
• ⚠️ Keep all grease and oil off the friction surfaces of pads and rotors.
• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground with the parking brake fully applied and the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 2-ton or higher, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8"
• 🛠️ Ratchet 1/2"
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ 19mm socket
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (up to 40 ft-lbs)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (up to 120 ft-lbs)
• 🛠️ Flat-head screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ C-clamp (4–6") or disc brake piston tool
• 🛠️ Wire brush (small, steel)
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or strong wire hanger
• 🛠️ Shop towels or rags
• 🛠️ Disposable gloves
• 🛠️ Catch pan or tray
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Small pick tool or awl
• 🛠️ Rubber mallet
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front brake pad set - Qty: 1 (serves both front wheels)
• 🔩 Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Front brake hardware kit (pad clips / abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Brake cleaner (aerosol can) - Qty: 1–2
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Replacement caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 4 (optional but recommended)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Altima on level ground, set the parking brake, and place the transmission in Park.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent any movement.
• Loosen (do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts one turn with the 21mm socket before jacking up.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; make sure it is not filled to the absolute top. If it is full, remove a little fluid with a clean syringe or turkey baster into a safe container.
• Keep fluid off paint; it can damage it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use the floor jack under the front center jacking point (crossmember behind the front bumper) as shown in your owner’s manual.
• Raise the front until both front wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the reinforced pinch weld points behind each front wheel and slowly lower the car onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Shake the car gently by hand to confirm it is stable on the stands.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the lug nuts from both front wheels.
• Pull the wheels straight off and set them aside safely.
• Place wheels under car as extra safety.

Step 3: Inspect the Front Brake Setup

• Identify the caliper (the part that squeezes the pads) and the caliper bracket (the metal frame holding the caliper and pads over the rotor).
• Look at how the old pads sit in the bracket and how any clips are arranged; you’ll reinstall the new ones in the same way.

Step 4: Remove the Caliper (One Side at a Time)

• On the back of the caliper, locate the two caliper slide pin bolts (top and bottom).
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove both slide pin bolts.
• Gently slide the caliper off the rotor and pads. If it’s tight, pry carefully with the flat-head screwdriver between the pad and rotor to create space.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord or wire. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

• Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the metal clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket using the flat-head screwdriver or pick tool.
• Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket where the clips sit. Remove rust and debris.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe with a rag.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Locate the two large bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove these bolts. They may be tight; you can use a pipe over the ratchet handle for extra leverage.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rotor

• If the rotor is stuck from rust, spray the hub center with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.
• Strike the rotor hat (the flat area near the studs, not the braking surface) with a rubber mallet from behind to loosen it.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.

Step 8: Prepare the Hub and New Rotor

• Use the wire brush to clean rust from the hub face where the rotor sits.
• Wipe the hub with a rag and brake cleaner.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound on the hub face to reduce future rust (avoid the wheel studs).
• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the protective oil coating and wipe dry with a rag.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

• Place the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the holes with the wheel studs.
• To keep the rotor from wobbling, hand-thread one lug nut on backwards (flat side against rotor) using the 21mm socket to hold it snug while you work.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor and line up the bolt holes.
• Install the caliper bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to tighten them.
• Then use the 1/2" torque wrench with the 19mm socket to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install New Hardware and Pads

• Clip the new metal pad hardware (abutment clips) into the caliper bracket by hand until fully seated.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake lubricant to the surfaces of the clips where the pads will slide (do not get any on the rotor or pad friction surfaces).
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket in the same orientation as the old pads.
• Usually, the pad with a wear sensor tab goes inside.

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face inside the caliper.
• Use the C-clamp over the caliper body and old pad to slowly push the piston back into the caliper until fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if the level approaches the top, remove some fluid with a syringe or turkey baster.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper Over New Pads

• Check the caliper slide pins: pull them out gently, wipe them with a rag, and apply a light coat of brake lubricant, then push them back in.
• Position the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten them, then use the 3/8" torque wrench and 14mm socket to torque the caliper slide pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4–13 on the other front wheel.
• Do one side at a time as a reference.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels and Lower the Car

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor with the 21mm socket.
• Install the wheel onto the studs and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet, but do not fully torque yet.
• Use the floor jack to lift the car slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car to the ground.

Step 16: Torque Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 1/2" torque wrench with the 21mm socket to torque each lug nut in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal and Check Fluid

• Before driving, sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and adjust to the “MAX” line if needed.
• Clean any spilled brake fluid immediately with water and a rag.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal; make sure it feels firm and consistent.
• On a quiet road, perform a low-speed test: brake from about 20–30 km/h to a stop a few times to confirm proper operation and no pulling or noises.
• Bed in the new pads and rotors: perform 5–8 smooth stops from 40–50 km/h down to 10 km/h without coming to a complete stop, allowing some cooling time between stops.
• For the first 300–500 km, avoid very hard braking unless it’s an emergency.
• After your first drive, recheck around the calipers and wheels for any signs of looseness or unusual noise.
• After about 50–100 km, re-torque the wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$650 (parts + labor) for front pads and rotors on an Altima

DIY Cost: $150–$250 (parts only)

You Save: $200–$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2 hours.

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