🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Forester. The pads create the stopping friction, and the rotors are the metal discs the pads clamp onto.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Always support your Forester with jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid away from paint. It can damage painted surfaces quickly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord 24-inch
• Brake cleaner aerosol can
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant silicone/ceramic safe - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner aerosol can - Qty: 1-2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Forester on level ground and shift to Park.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🛑 Set the parking brake while loosening the front lug nuts, then release it before lifting if needed for wheel removal clearance.
• 🔍 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is full, remove a small amount with a clean turkey baster before compressing the caliper pistons.
• 📘 A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
• 📘 A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Loosen only, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower your Forester gently onto the jack stands.
• Use your hands to gently shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you work underneath or near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an added safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room on the side you are working on.
• Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the two front caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a 24-inch bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use a medium flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Notice how the pad wear indicator is positioned before removal.
• Remove the old pad hardware clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with the medium flathead screwdriver.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• These bolts are usually tight, so keep the socket straight to avoid rounding the bolt head.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat area with controlled force using the handle end of the 1/2-inch breaker bar. Do not hit the wheel studs.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush until it is smooth and free of rust flakes.
• Spray the hub area with brake cleaner aerosol can and wipe it dry with shop towels.

Step 8: Install the New Rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner aerosol can and wipe it dry with shop towels.
• Slide the new rotor onto the wheel hub.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.
• Clean rotors stop better.

Step 9: Prepare the Caliper Bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
• Install the new front brake pad hardware clips by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone/ceramic brake lubricant to the areas where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a 6-inch C-clamp or brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid approaches the top.
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging the brake system.

Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new front brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads sit flat and move smoothly in the hardware clips.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone/ceramic brake lubricant to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper.
• Do not lubricate the friction face of the pads.

Step 13: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

• Remove the 24-inch bungee cord and lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Start both slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the other front wheel.
• Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm socket, wire brush, brake cleaner, and torque wrench.
• Always replace front pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install the front wheels by hand.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift your Forester slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and set it between MIN and MAX if needed.
• ✅ Start your Forester and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and steady.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 medium stops from about 30-35 mph, allowing a short cooling period between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 USD equivalent (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 USD equivalent (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 USD equivalent by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.