How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Durango (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and pad/rotor bed-in procedure for 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Durango (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and pad/rotor bed-in procedure for 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Durango - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
On your Durango SRT, the front brakes use high-performance fixed (Brembo-style) calipers. You’ll replace the front pads, then remove the caliper to swap the rotors, and finish with a careful bed-in so everything feels smooth and strong.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and support the SUV with jack stands—never rely on the jack alone.
- 🔥 Brakes get extremely hot; let everything cool fully before touching calipers/rotors.
- 🧪 Don’t breathe brake dust—use brake cleaner and wipe with damp towels (don’t blow with air).
- 🧴 Brake fluid can overflow when pushing pistons back; protect paint and check the reservoir level often.
- 🔩 Use correct torque on wheels and caliper bolts—loose brakes are dangerous.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
- Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Socket set (metric)
- Large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
- Small flat screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Pin punch set (3/16" or 5mm punch)
- Small hammer
- Bungee cord or caliper hook (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Brake pad hardware kit (anti-rattle spring/pins as applicable) - Qty: 1
- High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
- Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT type as shown on master cylinder cap) - Qty: 1 bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, steering straight, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s at/near “MAX,” use shop towels to protect the area in case it rises during piston push-back.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose while the tires are still on the ground using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Tip: Turn the steering to access caliper bolts easier.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Lift the front of the SUV using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front lift point.
- Set it securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Remove the pad retaining hardware (Brembo-style pins/spring)
- Locate the pad retaining pins and anti-rattle spring on the outside face of the caliper.
- Use needle-nose pliers and a small flat screwdriver to carefully remove the retaining clip (if equipped).
- Use a 3/16" or 5mm pin punch and small hammer to drive the pad pins out.
- Remove the anti-rattle spring and set all hardware aside in order.
- Tip: Cover the area so the spring can’t fly.
Step 3: Remove the old brake pads
- Slide the pads out of the caliper by hand.
- If they’re tight, use a small flat screwdriver gently at the pad backing plate (not the rotor) to start them moving.
Step 4: Compress the caliper pistons
- Place an old pad against the pistons, then slowly compress them using a large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty).
- Go slowly and evenly so all pistons retract without binding.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir as you compress—wipe any overflow immediately with shop towels.
- Tip: Slow compression reduces seal damage risk.
Step 5: Remove the caliper to replace the rotor
- From the back side of the knuckle, remove the caliper mounting bolts using the appropriate socket set (metric) and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
- Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it with a bungee cord or caliper hook (specialty).
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the old rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s stuck, spray the hub/rotor center area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a small hammer to break it free.
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat.
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels to remove shipping oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper (torque critical)
- Position the caliper over the new rotor.
- Apply medium-strength threadlocker (blue) to the caliper mounting bolts.
- Tighten using a ratchet first, then finish with a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
- Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Install the new pads and hardware
- Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points where they slide (not on friction material).
- Slide the new pads into the caliper.
- Reinstall the anti-rattle spring and pad pins using a pin punch set and small hammer.
- Reinstall the retaining clip using needle-nose pliers (if equipped).
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
- Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed using brake fluid (DOT type as shown on master cylinder cap).
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
- Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm smooth stops and no pulling or grinding.
- Pad/rotor bed-in: Do 6-10 medium stops from ~40 to 10 mph, with 30-60 seconds driving between stops to cool. Avoid hard stops to a complete standstill until cooled.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $450-$1,100 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$500+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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