🔧 Traverse - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Traverse. Brake pads create the friction that stops the vehicle, and rotors are the metal discs the pads clamp onto.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system only. Brake parts can get extremely hot after driving.
• ⚠️ Support your Traverse with jack stands. Never work under or around a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and oil off the brake pad friction material and rotor braking surfaces.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake pad and rotor replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Traverse on level ground.
• Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that keep the vehicle from rolling.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver-side rear area of the engine bay.
• Check the brake fluid level. If it is at or above MAX, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
• Do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a visual reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about one turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Tip: Loosen before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack at the approved front lifting point to raise the front of your Traverse.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 22mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Look at the caliper, brake hose, pads, rotor, and bracket before taking anything apart.
• The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
• Check for brake fluid leaks around the caliper and hose.
• If a brake hose is cracked, swollen, or leaking, it should be replaced before driving.

Step 5: Remove the Front Brake Caliper

• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper guide pin bolts from the back of the caliper.
• Slide the caliper off the rotor.
• Use a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or strut area.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Note the position of any wear indicator tab if equipped.
• The wear indicator is a small metal tab that squeals when the pads are worn low.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two front caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle.
• These bolts are tight, so keep the socket fully seated to avoid rounding the bolt heads.

Step 8: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with controlled strikes using a suitable hammer if available.
• Do not strike the wheel studs.
• Tip: Rust holds rotors tightly.

Step 9: Clean the Hub Surface

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris from the wheel hub face.
• The hub face is the flat metal surface the rotor sits against.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to wipe the area clean.
• A dirty hub can cause brake pedal vibration after repair.

Step 10: Install the New Rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
• Slide the new rotor onto the wheel hub.
• Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket

• Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old brake hardware clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use the wire brush to clean the bracket areas where the clips sit.
• Install the new hardware clips by hand until fully seated.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the hardware clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surface.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the large C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A piston compressor is a tool that pushes the caliper piston back so the thicker new pads will fit.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Fluid level will rise.
• Stop if fluid begins to overflow.

Step 14: Install the New Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad ears where they slide in the hardware clips.
• Install the inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly and sit flat against the rotor.
• Keep lubricant off the pad friction material.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord or mechanic’s wire and carefully lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Start both caliper guide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper guide pin bolts.
• Torque to 42 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite front brake.
• Replace front brake pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

• Remove any temporary lug nut holding the rotor.
• Install the wheels onto the hubs.
• Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 22mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Traverse until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before starting or driving, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• Do not skip this step. The first pedal push may go low.

Step 20: Check Brake Fluid Level

• Open the brake fluid reservoir cap.
• Check that the fluid level is between MIN and MAX.
• Add the correct brake fluid only if needed.
• Reinstall the reservoir cap securely.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Traverse and confirm the brake pedal feels firm.
• ✅ Check around both front calipers for leaks.
• ✅ Perform a slow driveway test before entering traffic.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads and rotors: make 8-10 moderate stops from about 30-35 mph, allowing time between stops for cooling.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.