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2019 Honda Civic
2017 - 2020 Honda Civic
Si Inline 4 1.5L

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  • Guides
  • Honda Civic
  • 2019
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: Si | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)
Honda civic si front brake pad and rotor replacement 10 gen

Honda civic si front brake pad and rotor replacement 10 gen

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: Si | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: Si | Engine: Inline 4 1.5L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

Orion
Orion

🔧 Civic - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

This is a manageable first brake job if you work carefully and complete one side at a time. You’ll replace both front rotors and the entire front pad set, clean the hubs, lubricate the correct contact points, and compress the caliper pistons.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Your Civic retains its stock Si front calipers and rotor size.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Civic with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle held only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Never blow brake dust away with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while either caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Never let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease, oil, and fingerprints off the pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • ⚠️ Check the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing each piston. Remove excess fluid if it approaches the top.
  • ⚠️ No electronic parking-brake service mode is required for this front-brake job.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 3-ton floor jack
  • 3-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug-nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
  • Phillips number 3 impact screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Soft-face hammer
  • Hand-operated wire brush
  • Nylon detailing brush
  • Drain pan
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Si front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Si front vented brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Silicone-based brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
  • Honda M-77 assembly paste or equivalent brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle if topping off is necessary
  • Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

📋 Before You Begin

  • 📋 Park on level, solid ground. Select first gear, apply the parking brake, and switch the engine off.
  • 📋 Chock both rear wheels securely.
  • 📋 Allow the brakes to cool completely before touching them.
  • 📋 Open the hood and locate the brake-fluid reservoir. Clean around its cap before opening it.
  • 📋 Photograph the original pad clips and spring arrangement before disassembly.
  • 📋 Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains your reference.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel nuts

  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one-quarter turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts while your Civic is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack at the approved front-center lifting point.
  • Position the 3-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
  • Lower your Civic onto the stands, then gently test that it is stable.
  • A spare wheel under the sill adds backup.

Step 3: Remove the front wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both wheels and place their finished faces upward.

Step 4: Inspect the brake assembly

  • Check the brake hose for cracks, wetness, bulges, or twisting.
  • Compare inner and outer pad thickness. A large difference can indicate a seized slide pin or sticking caliper.
  • Look for fluid around the piston boot. Stop the repair if the caliper is leaking.
  • Check that the replacement rotors and pads physically match the stock Si parts before proceeding.

Step 5: Remove the caliper

  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts.
  • If a slide pin rotates, hold its flats with the 17mm combination wrench.
  • Lift the caliper away and suspend it with the brake caliper hanger.
  • Do not disconnect the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the old brake pads

  • Pull both pads from the bracket by hand.
  • Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless pad-retaining clips.
  • Note that the wear indicator belongs in the same position shown by the original Si pad arrangement.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old pad against the piston to spread the force evenly.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compressor to push the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir. Remove excess fluid with a clean fluid extractor if the level rises too high.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or requires extreme force.

Step 8: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove both caliper-bracket bolts.
  • Support the bracket as the second bolt comes out.

Step 9: Remove the old rotor

  • If retaining screws are installed, use the Phillips number 3 impact screwdriver to loosen them without stripping their heads.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If it is stuck, strike only the rotor hat between the wheel studs with the soft-face hammer.
  • Do not strike the wheel studs, hub, or dust shield.

Step 10: Clean the hub

  • Place the drain pan beneath the assembly.
  • Use the hand-operated wire brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face.
  • Use the nylon detailing brush, brake cleaner, and shop towels to clean around the wheel studs.
  • The rotor must sit completely flat against the hub. Even a small rust flake can cause pedal pulsation.

Step 11: Prepare and install the new rotor

  • Clean both rotor friction faces with brake cleaner and shop towels unless the rotor instructions specifically say its coating is ready for installation.
  • Install the rotor over the wheel studs without touching its cleaned friction faces.
  • Reinstall any rotor retaining screws with the Phillips number 3 impact screwdriver. Seat them lightly without over-tightening.
  • Temporarily install two lug nuts by hand to hold the rotor flat.

Step 12: Service the bracket and slide pins

  • Remove each slide pin from the bracket one at a time.
  • Clean it using brake cleaner, shop towels, and the nylon detailing brush.
  • Apply a thin coat of silicone-based brake grease to the smooth pin surface.
  • Keep petroleum grease away from the rubber boots because it can swell the rubber.
  • Reinstall each pin into its original location and verify that it moves freely.
  • Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to install the new pad-retaining clips.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket and start both bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both Si bracket bolts.
  • Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Prepare and install the new pads

  • Apply a very thin film of Honda M-77 assembly paste or equivalent brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the stainless clips.
  • Apply only the amount specified by the pad manufacturer to the backs of the pads and shim contact points.
  • Do not apply lubricant to the friction material or rotor.
  • Slide the inner and outer pads into the bracket. They should move without binding.
  • Brake grease is useful, not decorative frosting.

Step 15: Reinstall the caliper

  • Remove the brake caliper hanger and lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Make sure the piston boot and slide-pin boots are not pinched or twisted.
  • Start both slide-pin bolts by hand.
  • Hold a rotating slide pin with the 17mm combination wrench.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both Si caliper bolts.
  • Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat on the opposite side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front wheel.
  • Confirm that both brake hoses follow their original routing and are not twisted.

Step 17: Reinstall the wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nuts with the 19mm lug-nut socket.
  • Install each wheel and start all five lug nuts by hand.
  • Snug them in a star pattern using the 19mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.

Step 18: Lower and torque the wheels

  • Use the 3-ton floor jack to raise your Civic slightly and remove the 3-ton jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle fully.
  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before starting or moving your Civic, press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm.
  • ✅ Check the brake-fluid level and adjust it between the MIN and MAX marks using fresh DOT 3 fluid only if necessary.
  • ✅ Start the engine and press the pedal again. It should remain firm and should not slowly sink.
  • ✅ Inspect both calipers and hoses for leaks or interference.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed before entering traffic.
  • ✅ Follow the pad manufacturer's bedding procedure. If none is supplied, make several moderate slowdowns with cooling time between them and avoid holding the hot pads against the rotors.
  • ✅ Avoid panic stops during the first 200 miles unless an emergency requires one.
  • ✅ Recheck wheel torque after approximately 50 miles.
  • ✅ Stop driving immediately if the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls strongly, or you hear metal grinding.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $125-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $250-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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