🔧 Fusion - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Fusion. The pads create friction to stop the car, and the rotors are the round metal discs the pads clamp onto.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands. Jack stands are metal supports that safely hold the car up after lifting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust can irritate your skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Support the brake caliper with a hanger or bungee cord. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid overflows from the reservoir while compressing the caliper piston, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger or bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fusion on level ground and shift to Park.
• Set the parking brake only while loosening the front lug nuts. The front brakes are being serviced, so the parking brake does not affect the front calipers.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the car from rolling.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver-side rear of the engine bay.
• Check the brake fluid level. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster before pushing the caliper pistons back.
• No infotainment menu, scan tool, EPB service mode, or battery registration is required for the front brakes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Break them loose, do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use the floor jack at the front center lifting point or approved side pinch weld lift point.
• Place jack stands under the reinforced front pinch welds.
• Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the car by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the car as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Look at the caliper, brake hose, rotor, and pads before removing anything.
• The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean heavy dust from the area.
• Do not breathe brake dust. Spray it wet first, then wipe.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Guide Pin Bolts

• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper guide pin bolts from the back of the caliper.
• If the guide pin spins, hold the pin flats with a suitable wrench while loosening the bolt.
• Set the bolts aside in a safe place.

Step 6: Remove and Support the Caliper

• Use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward just enough to loosen it from the pads.
• Slide the caliper off the rotor by hand.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a brake caliper hanger or bungee cord.
• Do not stretch, twist, or kink the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use the flathead screwdriver if the pads are stuck, but do not gouge the bracket.
• Notice how the pad wear indicator is positioned so the new pads go in the same way.

Step 8: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the back of the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the hub and suspension together.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on your work area.

Step 9: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If it is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer if available, or carefully work it loose by hand.
• Do not hit the wheel studs with metal tools.
• Use the wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
• A clean hub prevents brake vibration.

Step 10: Prepare the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean both sides of the new rotor.
• New rotors often have an oily coating to prevent rust during shipping.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 11: Clean and Reload the Caliper Bracket

• Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the old pad hardware clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use the wire brush to clean the areas where the clips sit.
• Install the new hardware clips by hand until fully seated.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the hardware clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both caliper bracket bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use brake lubricant only on the metal backing ears where the pads touch the hardware clips.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the bracket without forcing them.

Step 14: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A piston is the round metal cup inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Stop if fluid approaches the top.
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging the brake system.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor by hand.
• Start the two caliper guide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Use the 13mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the guide pin bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front brake assembly.
• Always replace front brake pads and rotors in pairs so braking stays even.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
• Install each front wheel onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the car slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the car until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before starting or driving, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• If the pedal stays soft or sinks, do not drive the car.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Start your Fusion and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm.
• ✅ Check around both front calipers for leaks.
• ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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