How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2019 Nissan Sentra (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2017-2019 Nissan Sentra (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Sentra - Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the front brake pads and both front rotors on your Sentra. Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
Assumption: Factory-size front brakes and original-style calipers are installed.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Sentra with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- 🛑 Replace front pads and rotors on both sides to maintain even braking.
- 🧤 Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
- 🔥 Allow the brakes to cool completely before beginning.
- 💧 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- 🔗 Never let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
- 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately with water.
- 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm lug-nut socket
- 14mm six-point socket
- 19mm six-point socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
- 6-inch socket extension
- Flat-blade screwdriver (8-inch)
- Brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
- Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
- Rubber mallet (16-ounce)
- M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts (specialty)
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks (rubber)
- Drain pan (2-quart minimum)
- Wire brush (handheld)
- Brake-parts cleaning brush (nylon)
- Disposable shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set with hardware - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 pint
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Sentra on firm, level ground. Shift into first gear, apply the parking brake, and switch off the ignition.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear tires.
- 📝 Check the brake-fluid reservoir under the hood. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean fluid extractor before compressing the caliper pistons.
- 🔍 Inspect the brake hoses for cracks, wetness, swelling, or exposed reinforcement. Replace a damaged hose before driving.
- 📱 No infotainment service mode, scan tool, EPB retraction, coding, or battery registration is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts
- Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one-half turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts while the tires are still carrying the vehicle’s weight.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Position the 2-ton floor jack beneath the front-center subframe lifting point.
- Raise the front of your Sentra, then place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle onto the stands and gently check that it is stable.
- Keep the floor jack nearby as secondary support.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and slide one wheel beneath the rocker-panel area as an extra precaution.
Step 4: Remove the First Brake Caliper
- Turn the steering wheel so the caliper on the side being serviced faces outward.
- Place the 2-quart drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
- Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide-pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use the brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the strut spring.
- A slide pin is the lubricated pin that lets the caliper move sideways as the brakes apply.
- Do not twist, stretch, or support the caliper by its brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver to carefully release the stainless pad-support clips.
- Note the location of the inner pad’s wear indicator before discarding the old pads.
Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use the 19mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts behind the steering knuckle.
- Remove the bracket and place it on a clean surface.
Step 7: Remove the Old Rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
- If rust has seized it in place, thread two M8 x 1.25 rotor-removal bolts evenly into the rotor’s extraction holes using a 3/8-inch ratchet. Alternate between the bolts until the rotor releases.
- If extraction holes are unavailable, strike only the rotor hat between the wheel studs using the 16-ounce rubber mallet.
- Do not hit the wheel studs or the hub’s center bore.
Step 8: Clean the Hub and New Rotor
- Use the handheld wire brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face and center pilot.
- Wipe the hub clean using disposable shop towels and aerosol brake cleaner.
- Spray both friction surfaces of the new rotor with aerosol brake cleaner, then dry them with clean disposable shop towels.
- The hub face must be smooth so the new rotor sits flat and does not wobble.
Step 9: Install the New Rotor
- Slide the new rotor fully onto the hub by hand.
- Temporarily install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor flat while the brake is assembled.
- Do not get lubricant on either rotor friction surface.
Step 10: Service the Caliper Bracket
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver to carefully remove both slide pins and their rubber boots from the bracket, one at a time.
- Clean the pins with disposable shop towels. Replace any pin that is rusted, pitted, or bent.
- Use the nylon brake-parts cleaning brush and aerosol brake cleaner to clean the pad-contact areas on the bracket.
- Apply a thin coating of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to each smooth slide pin, then reinstall the pins and seat the rubber boots.
- Fit the new stainless pad-support clips by hand.
- Apply only a very thin film of lubricant where the pad tabs touch the clips. Keep lubricant away from pad and rotor friction surfaces.
Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
- Use the 19mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten both bracket bolts evenly.
- Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Check the brake-fluid reservoir to ensure it will not overflow.
- Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use the brake caliper piston compressor to push the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper.
- This front piston presses straight inward; it does not need to be rotated.
- Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or causes fluid to leak from the caliper.
Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Position the wear indicator in the same location as the original inner pad.
- Confirm both pads slide freely in the support clips without excessive looseness.
Step 14: Reinstall the Brake Caliper
- Remove the brake caliper hanger and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Make sure the brake hose is not twisted.
- Start both slide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten both slide-pin bolts.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the other front brake using the same listed tools.
- Before installing the wheel, visually verify that every bracket bolt and slide-pin bolt is installed and tightened.
Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels
- Remove the temporary lug nut and install each wheel by hand.
- Start every lug nut by hand, then snug them in a crisscross pattern using the 21mm lug-nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet.
- Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Sentra slightly, remove the 2-ton jack stands, and lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 21mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Restore Brake-Pedal Pressure
- With the engine off, slowly press and release the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm.
- Do not move your Sentra until the pedal is firm and remains above the floor.
- Check the brake-fluid reservoir. Add only fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if the level is below the MAX line.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Inspect around both calipers for brake-fluid leaks and verify both hoses are routed without twists.
- 🛑 Start the engine and hold firm pedal pressure for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain steady rather than sinking.
- 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
- 🌡️ Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Do not stop completely between applications.
- ❄️ Drive for 5-10 minutes with minimal braking afterward so the brakes can cool.
- ⛔ Avoid hard braking and holding the pedal down after a hard stop for the first 300-500 km unless needed for safety.
- 🔧 Recheck wheel-lug torque after approximately 80-160 km.
- ⚠️ Do not drive if the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls strongly, or fluid is leaking.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$300 (parts only)
You Save: $310-$450 by doing it yourself!
Local pricing in Sonīpat may differ due to parts availability and labor rates. Typical dealership-equivalent labor is about 2-3 hours.
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